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Mountain View Road

Distance:  50 miles out and back
Elevation gain: 8000 ft

(Note: all Boonville rides are made better if you can do them during the Mendocino County Fair, a classic old-school rural fair of great charm.)

This is one of seven rides (all detailed in the Adding Miles section below) that are worth doing around Boonville, a charming little town with good food and an interesting history, so I encourage you to find a place to stay in the area, make a cycling holiday out of it, and do all of them.

This ride is tough.  It may be one of the two hardest climbs in Bestrides (the other being Gilbraltar Road).  And the road surface is mostly shaky.   And there are only two rather ordinary “views,” despite the road’s name—the rest of the time, all you can see is the greenery on either side of the road.  The scenery is typical coastal forest—no better, no worse.  So it’s mostly about bragging rights, the sense of adventure, and the two charming towns at either end.  Philo-Greenwood Road just to the north is easier and prettier and has a better surface. Continue reading

Mendocino/Comptche

Distance: 46-mile loop
Elevation gain: 3600 ft

(A Best of the Best ride)

(Update 10/25: The one fly in the glorious ointment that is this ride used to be the road surface on Flynn Creek Rd.  I’m happy to report that FCR has been resurfaced, and enough time has passed since the resurfacing that the chip seal is nicely smoothed over by car traffic.  The surface is now near perfect, and Flynn Creek Rd. has gone from pleasant to splendid.  The entire loop is now about 85% A-level surface and the other 15% (the western half of Comptche-Ukiah Rd.) is not a problem. JR)

This may be the prettiest wooded ride, mile for mile, in California.  It is, by far, the Bestrides route that has elicited the most “Best ride I’ve ever done!” responses from readers.  And it has the selling point of starting and ending in downtown Mendocino, one of my favorite places.  It climbs and descents up and over a summit among simply perfect piney woods, passes a classic country store, descends gradually along the Navarro River and its stunning riparian redwoods, and ends with a pretty but trafficky leg on Hwy 1 that’s thick with  charming inns and one State Park to stop and explore.

It’s a fairly easy 46 miles (check out the distance-to-elevation-gain ratio above), but it’s never boringly flat and you still get two fine descents (if you’re going clockwise).  

It’s hard to decide which direction to ride the loop in.  See Which Way to Go below for  the comparative virtues of the two directions.  I’ve arbitrarily picked the clockwise route to describe. 

Continue reading

Branscomb Road

Distance:  50 miles out and back
Elevation gain: 3215 ft

(A Best of the Best ride)

This is one of my favorites.  There’s a purity about it, because you begin at one end of a road and ride that road until it ends.  I found it via my favorite ride-finding technique:  I looked at the AAA road map, spotted a thin, wiggly line, and said, “That’s got to be a great ride!”  It’s one of several rides in this list that begin at the California coast and climb straight up, usually through lush ferny coastal rainforest.  In this case, the climb is 7 miles of demanding (often 8-10%) but thoroughly rewarding pitch, after which the road rolls through pretty forests and meadows to the turn-around point in Laytonville on Highway 101.  Along the way you get an huge old lumber mill, a general store that served the mill and still functions, and an exquisite little stand of redwoods in a State Recreation Area.

Part of the joy here is that you’re in on a secret.  Branscomb Rd is almost unknown to cyclists—I’ve never seen another bike on it, and few cars—partly because it leaves Hwy 1 from a point in the middle of nowhere, and partly because until about 2011 it was largely dirt.  Which means the pavement was (in 2011) pristine, and is still mostly good.  Several readers wrote in to complain of logging traffic, but I’ve never seen a logging truck in my several trips up Branscomb, so I think it must have been temporary.

The ride works well in either direction.  If you start from Laytonville you put the climb in the middle of the ride when you’re warmed up.  You also stand a better chance of avoiding the chronic morning fog near the ocean (see Afterthoughts below).  But you put the descent before the climb, which always feels wrong to me. Continue reading

Avenue of the Giants

Distance: 32 miles out and back
Elevation gain: 1780 ft

This is one of the few rides in Bestrides that is easy enough to be easily be done by a non-cyclist on a rental cruiser (for the others, see the list of flat rides in the Best Of the Best page).  Here the appeal is entirely in the scenery—you’re riding through some of the greatest redwood forests left on earth.  It’s not my favorite Redwoods ride—that would be Big Basin (at least before Big Basin burned), which in addition to Redwoods has wonderful climbing and descending—but it’s certainly the ride with the biggest, most awe-inspiring trees.  (There is a list of Redwood rides on the Best of the Best page too.)  It’s in Humboldt Redwoods State Park, but the car traffic isn’t bad—since the Avenue is paralleled by the main highway just a stone’s throw to the west, all through traffic is diverted and you’ll share the road with the few cars hip enough to linger.    If you want to make the ride longer or harder, there is good riding on either end (see Adding Miles). Continue reading

Indian Valley

Distance: 68 miles out and back
Elevation gain: 2064

Update 2021: Greenville was destroyed by fire in the summer of 2021. The fire stopped at the eastern edge of town and left the first 22 miles of this ride pristine (thanks, Robert).  The 10-mile climb to Antelope Lake is presently (9/24) being repaved and is what appears to be good dirt (see details below.)

There are more awe-inspiring rides, but there is no prettier ride in California than this one.  It’s a short form of the Indian Valley Century.   It goes along the lip of two flat, postcard-perfect valleys framed by mountains (with snowy peaks, if you time it right), and you’re just a bit up off the valley floor, so you get all the scenery without the flat—the road gently bobs and weaves and rises and drops and thus provides you with a delightfully varied road contour.  Then the outward leg ends with a ten-mile climb that’s entirely doable and parallels a tumbling, rocky creek.  I’ve cut off two loops from the century route I don’t need, but I’ll tell you they’re there and what you’re missing.   All the significant climbing is in the last 10 miles out, so if you skip it the ride is easy.

I rarely talk about driving routes to rides, but this one merits a word.  As of 9/24, the two main routes to Greenville—up Hwy 32 through Chester and up Hwy 70 through the Feather River Canyon—are problematic.  Hwy 32 is essentially closed while they deal with repairs from the Park Fire.  Cars are allowed through at 3 designated times each day.  Consult the CA road conditions website.  Hwy 70, while a beautifully scenic drive, is undergoing a lot of construction, resulting in numerous one-way stretches and traffic hold-ups.  When I drove it I counted 7 time-consuming stops, the longest being c. 15 min.  None of these construction projects looked anywhere near completion.  Plan your travel time accordingly.

Greenville has ample shoulder parking.  If school isn’t in session I park in the school parking lot (unmissable as you enter town on your R coming from the south).  Ride north and east out of town on the only road, North Valley Rd.  Ride 34 miles on this road, then turn around and ride back.  Keep going on North Valley Rd., ignoring a few roads going off to the left and right, as the road name changes to Genessee Rd, then Indian Creek Rd., heading first to Genessee Valley and finally to Antelope Lake.

There’s only one place to get lost. At 9.5 miles in, there’s a fork.  Diamond Mt. Road takes off to the L (signed), and our road, which is oddly unsigned, goes R and immediately crosses a small but sturdy bridge.

Between Indian Valley and Genessee Valley there are a few miles of lovely woods, and here you get a mild climb and descent—if you skip the climb to the lake, this is the only noticeable climb on the ride.

Ride through Genessee Valley.  Midway you pass the Genessee store and restaurant, which may or may not be open. I had a long conversation with a local in Spanish which implied that it was indeed open, sometimes, in some seasons.  If it’s open, check it out.

At the end of the valley the big, obvious climb starts.  A mile before it kicks in, you pass a sign reading “Road closed 1 mile.”  A mile later the construction starts and the road turns to what looks like excellent dirt (as of 9/24), but there is no gate or warning sign scaring you off.  I didn’t explore further.  If you attempt it, it’s an honest 10 miles up.  After a mile or so you’ll say, “I don’t think I can do this for 10 miles,” but all the steep is in the first 3 miles; then it mellows out and rolls so much that you’ll do some work coming back “down.”

Indian Valley in June (it's greener and prettier in May)

Indian Valley in June (it’s even greener and prettier in May)

At the dam the road circumnavigates the lake, but I don’t like the ride because I think it’s ugly.  The area was burned to ash many years ago, and the soil is a chalky moondust that won’t allow much to grow back.   Do it if you’re set on riding a hundred miles.  Otherwise, turn around and ride home.

Genessee Valley

Genessee Valley

At the bottom of the climb, return the way you came, unless you dislike out and backs, in which case see below.

Shortening the ride: Skip the climb to Antelope Lake.

Adding miles: To restore the miles I cut from the Century, a) ride around Antelope Lake (see above) and b) take the big loop that goes off from North Valley Road to the northeast.  It’s Diamond Rd. going out and North Arm Rd. returning if you ride it on your way out.  You’ll need to ride it twice, on your way out and your way home, to total 100 miles.  It’s perfectly pleasant but a notch less scenic than the valley riding.  You might consider riding it once, on the way out or the way back.

About halfway out along the main route there’s a 1-mile detour to the tiny, cute town of Taylorsville, which has a market, a tavern, and a church (see Johnmc’s comments below).  It’s worth it if you like tiny, cute towns.

If you’re dead set on riding a loop, stay left when you re-enter Indian Valley, ride through Taylorsville, and continue west to Hwy 89 on a much flatter, straighter, and less rewarding valley road.  This will necessitate you riding a final leg up Hwy 89 to your car, managing one significant climb and descent in the process, but it’s a pleasant ride for a highway.  There are other roads through the heart of Indian Valley, smaller and even more boring, if you like flat.

Reachable by car are 1) our Chester Back Roads rides, and 2) a challenging and rewarding ride from Quincy up Rd 119/414 to Buck’s Lake.  You can make this ride a lollipop by taking the south route to Buck’s Lake out and the north route home when you hit the obvious fork.   Buck’s is a lovely lake with rustic resorts, cabins, and a road along its west shore for more riding.

Afterthoughts: Time of year matters here.  The valleys are at their prettiest in the spring, before things turn hot.  But you’re in the mountains, and spring snows and hailstorms are common.   I’ve done the century once in snow and once in hail, and both times I froze.  Ideally you’ll do this ride before the summer heat arrives but while there is still picturesque snow on the mountain peaks.   Watch the weather report and take an extra layer, especially if you’re planning on doing the Antelope Lake loop.

Don’t miss Johnmc’s helpful additions below.

Wooden Valley/Pleasants Valley

Distance: 81-mile loop with a spur
Elevation gain: 3370 ft

The Mix Canyon leg of this ride is covered thoroughly in words and pictures at toughascent.com.

See reader comments below on the serious fire damage done to this route in recent years.

This loop goes through the best riding in the area between the Wine Country and Davis.  It’s got two great climbs, two scenic farming valleys, and a few boring miles through the outskirts of Fairfield to get from one valley to the other.   There is no great wow factor (except the Mix Canyon descent), but, with the exception of the Fairfield miles, it’s all very pretty and pleasant.

You want to think about when you do this ride.  On summer afternoons, it’s hot.  On weekends, the traffic around Berryessa is obnoxious.  On Monday and Tuesday everything in Manka’s Corner is shut down, so you will have one and only one opportunity for resupplying water and food: the shopping center at the corner of Waterman and Hilborn in Fairfield.

If you aren’t up for a big day, it’s easy to take about half of the hard out: just skip both of the climbing detours.

There is a bike shop in Winters, closed Monday and Tuesday.

Continue reading

Table Mountain

Distance:  26-mile loop
Elevation gain: 1410 ft

Note: This route was untouched by the Camp Fire of 2018.

This loop consists of roads covered by the Wildflower Century, my hometown cycling club’s annual spring ride, and since 4000 cyclists do it every year there’s a good chance you’ve been over these roads.  But this loop goes backwards to the Wildflower direction, and it’s a wholly different, and better, ride.   It’s got a lot of points of interest besides the riding—a famous dam, century-old olive orchards, a state-of-the-art sustainable farm, a covered bridge, nationally renowned wildflowers in season, a Gold Rush cemetery, and two old Gold Rush towns complete with historical plaques and one-room museums.

You have a serious choice about which direction to ride in.  I’ve mapped it clockwise.  But there are benefits to riding the loop in the other direction.  Counter-clockwise reverses the climbing/descending, so instead of a short, sweet climb up to Cherokee and a long, rough, rollicking descent down to Oroville, you get a long, gradual ascent up from Oroville and a short, super-sweet, glassy-smooth descent down to Hwy 70. In fact, I don’t do this ride as mapped any more, in either direction—see Alternate routes below for my current favored route.

Weather matters on this ride.  Chico-area winds are predominantly from the north, and if a north wind is snorting, that first leg of the loop can be horrific.  I’ve done it in a death-march paceline at 10 mph.   If it’s like that on your day, ride the loop in whichever direction has the wind at your back on the Table Mountain Blvd. leg.  Also, on a normal summer afternoon the temperature on the first half of the ride can be well over 100 degrees, so ride early.

The famous expanses of spring wildflowers at the top of Table Mountain are a treat if you can schedule your ride to coincide with the bloom.  Bring a lock and walking shoes and do your best impression of the Sound of Music’s Maria through the fields of lupine, goldfields, and owl clover.  Wildflower websites will tell you when the Table Mt. wildflowers are peaking (usually March to early April).  Start at the obvious parking lot on the north side of the road and follow the little creek downstream to get to a lovely waterfall.  Of course to see wildflowers you run two risks: 1) rain, for that is the rainy season—which is why the Wildflower century is ironically run later in the year after all the flowers are gone; and 2).wildflower tourists.  Table Mountain Blvd. is thick with traffic on wildflower weekends, and there’s no room on the road for them and you, so absolutely do not do this ride on a weekend day during wildflower season.

You might wonder why, if clockwise is the better direction, the Wildflower Century goes the other way.  It’s about safety.  Long ago the Century did go my direction, but a cyclist was killed by a car while descending Table Mountain Road, and the ride committee decided the descent couldn’t handle thousands of cyclists at high speed dodging cars on a weekend.

Table Mountain is a huge mesa (Spanish for “table”) outside of Oroville.  The ride climbs up to it, traverses it, and drops down the other side.  The rest of the ride is getting back to your car, though much of it is nice riding.  Warning: this ride has about seven miles of boring—my absolute limit.

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Old olive trees along Coal Canyon Rd

You can begin the loop anywhere, but I like to get the boring leg out of the way, so I start at the intersection of Table Mt. Boulevard and Cherokee Road.   There’s lots of safe curbside parking in the neighborhoods to the immediate southeast, and if you’re not comfortable with that there is a huge parking lot a couple of blocks due south surrounding government buildings (and a 7-11 for afters).  Ride north for 7 miles on Table Mt. Boulevard and turn R onto Coal Canyon Road.  You’re immediately surrounded by lovely olive trees, some well over 100 years old.  On your right you’ll pass Chaffin Farms, a farm nationally renowned for its sustainable farming practices.   Look for the chicken yurts, little portable tepees that help spread the chicken poop throughout the orchards.  Coal Canyon crosses Highway 70 and becomes Wheelock (only one L) Rd.  Wheelock dead-ends at Durham-Pentz Rd.  The riding is less than exhilarating for the next 3 miles or so.  Go R on Durham-Pentz until it dead-ends at Pentz Rd.  Go R onto Pentz until it dead-ends at Highway 70.  Just before Hwy 70 you’ll pass a school, where water fountains are available if the grounds aren’t locked up.  If they are, the fence is scalable.

The ascent from Hwy 70 to Cherokee is pretty perfect

Slog up the shoulder of boring and busy 70 for an unpleasant half-mile or so and take the first R onto Cherokee Rd.  The riding will be fine from here to your car.  The first 1.5 miles of Cherokee Rd. is a lovely ride that used to be one of the prettiest, sweetest climbs in Bestrides, but after the dreadful forest fires of recent years California went on a fuel-removing spree and the magnificent oak canopy has been cut way back.  It’s still very good.

At the top of the climb you level out at the old historical town of Cherokee, which is now just several houses, some stone ruins, a small museum that never seems to be open, and an interesting historical marker worth reading.  Cherokee was a major diamond mining center, and one of the miners moved from there to South Africa, where he helped found DeBeers, the company that controls the world’s diamond market.

The next 8 miles roll across Table Mountain itself, at first a lovely ride through foothill oak and scrub and past real, low-rent ranches.  A mile or so past Cherokee, on the R, is the Cherokee Cemetery (there’s a small sign), with gravestones from 1871.  At 19 miles into the ride, Derrick Rd. (signed) takes off to the L, and signs pointing L read “Oregon City” and “Covered Bridge.”  For a nice diversion, follow those signs L.  In 0.5 miles you pass under the covered bridge, and just beyond is a) the plaque detailing the history of Oregon City and b) the Oregon City schoolhouse, now an interesting museum of local history.  It’s usually closed, but the keeper lives next door and will be happy to let you in if she isn’t busy.

Table Mountain wildflowers

Table Mountain wildflowers

Back on Cherokee/Table Mountain Rd, in another 1/2 mile you get to the nationally famous wildflower fields on both sides of the road.  You can’t miss them—huge rolling lava fields full of either wildflowers, green grass, or dead grass, depending on the season of your ride (see Afterthoughts below).

The descent: 3.5 miles of this

The descent from Table Mt. to Oroville: 3.5 miles of roller coaster

Now for the descent: 3.5 miles of rollicking, very fast roller-coaster.  It’s open enough that you should be able to see cars approaching (but see the warning about traffic in Afterthoughts).  This would easily be a Best of the Best descent were it not for the road surface, which is rough—not pot-holey, tire-threatening rough, but chattery, rattle-your-teeth rough.  If the county ever repaves it, it will be marvelous.

At the bottom of the hill you ride back along the Feather River to your car.  If you look upstream when you first hit the water you can catch a glimpse of Oroville Dam, one of the world’s largest earth-filled dams, which made national headlines by coming close to self-destructing in the winter of 2016, threatening much of Northern California with a flood of Biblical proportions.

Alternate route:  Because I like climbing, I now ride Cherokee Rd only, as an out-and-back.  This allows you to ride both major hills up and down, and gives you a ride without a boring mile.  It also avoids having to deal with the wind, since the wind is only a factor on the valley flats.  All you miss are the ancient olive trees and Chaffin Farms.  Start at the Oroville end, so you get 10 minutes of flat warm-up before the first climb.

Shortening the route: Climbing up to Table Mountain from either side and turning around makes a nice out-and-back.  Start at the intersection of Cherokee Rd. and Hwy 70, or somewhere near the intersection of Table Mountain Blvd. and Cherokee Rd., and ride as many of the semi-flat miles on top of Table Mt. as you like.

Adding miles: you’re a few miles from the Concow Road ride (straight up Hwy 70) and a 15-minute car ride from the Oroville to Forbestown ride.

 

Concow Road

Distance: 18 miles out and back
Elevation gain: 2660 ft

(A Best of the Best ride)

6/20 update: the Concow area has burned twice in recent years.  There are two areas of noticeable burn on the ride—the first couple of miles after the Concow/Nelson Bar intersection, and the turn-around where the road turns to gravel.  Between, the woods are intact and still lovely.  And of course the road contour is unaffected.  Still a great ride.  JR

This little gem is one of the sweetest 18-mile rides you’ll ever do, and the best ride in the Chico/Oroville area.  It’s a delightful roller-coaster back-country climb on glassy road surfaces through pretty foothills farms and woodland to a spot where the road turns to dirt.  The road contour is constantly varied, up and down and back and forth, with no two climbs or curves the same, and it’s good riding in both directions.  It’s also a workout—you’ll log almost 3000 ft of gain in less than 20 miles, with a few short pitches of 11-12%, but none of the climbs lasts long.  It’s smoother and faster than the average back road, and you can touch 40 mph a time or two.

Traffic should be next to nothing.

Begin at the intersection of Hwy 70 and Lunt Rd.  The route is full-on up and down from the get-go, so there’s no place flat to warm up.  I actually start at the intersection of Concow Rd. and Hwy 70, because it’s relatively flat there, and ride back and forth on Hwy 70 for 20 minutes before starting the route.  Ride straight down (and I do mean down—it’s a 40-mph descent) Lunt for a mile to a stop sign and a T.  Go right onto Nelson Bar Rd. (signed) and follow it until it dead-ends at Concow Rd.   Take Concow Rd. to the L and ride Concow to the end of the pavement.  Nelson Bar is fairly coarse chipseal, but Concow is glass—inexplicable for such an unused dead-end road.  Turn around and ride back.

Just east of the Concow Rd/Nelson Bar Rd intersection (uphill) on Concow is the Messilla Valley Schoolhouse, a classic old structure in good shape, moved at great expense from Messilla Valley (a few miles away) to its current location.  The interior hasn’t been restored (it isn’t a school or a museum, just a modern meeting room), but it’s a pretty sight from the outside.  There are bathrooms around back.

The visual highlight of the ride is Concow Lake, which you’ll parallel for a mile or so.  It’s very pretty, and there are two access points to the water open to strangers, both marked on an unmissable billboard map at a big dirt parking lot.  Beyond those two points it’s all private and posted and they don’t take kindly to trespassers.

Past Concow Lake you’ll ride by a number of yards with barking dogs, but I’ve never encountered one that was loose.

About a mile from the turn-around the road turns seriously up and stays that way until you hit gravel.  When you turn around, that one-mile descent is steep, curvy, and always a bit gravelly, so it’s a technical challenge.

On the way back, watch for the R turn onto Nelson Bar Rd.—there’s a sign, but it’s easy to miss.

You have three options for riding back up to Hwy 70.  You can go back the way you came down, on Lunt, which is the hardest climb of the three.  Easier is to go stay on Concow all the way out—it’s a noticeably shallower pitch, and it’s shadier and more wooded.  Easiest of all is to take Concow Rd. to just past the old school and go L on Pinkston Canyon Rd. (erroneously signed Pinkston Canyon Ct., which implies it’s a culture de sac).  It’s a fairly featureless ride on solid, coarse chisel, but it’s mellow climbing and drops you on Hwy 70 with a short, quick descent back to your car.

After the ride you can resupply at the Canyon Lakes Market (so-called because it’s not close to a canyon or a lake), aka the Dome Store, at the intersection of Hwy 70 and Concow Rd.

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Concow Road—smooooth

Concow Lake

Shortening the route: Start at the intersection of Nelson Bar and Concow Rd., or skip the climb right before the turn-around, or begin and end at the Concow Rd/Hwy 70 junction, skipping Nelson Bar Rd.

Adding miles: There’s a short spur off this route that adds a nice couple of miles.  On the ride out, at the intersection of Lunt and Nelson Bar Rd, go L instead of R and ride to the dead end, then return.   The road surface is a little rough.

There isn’t a lot of other good riding nearby.  If you drive or ride up Hwy 70 a stone’s throw, Dark Canyon Rd. is on your R.  It’s a straight-forward descent down a pretty little draw dead-ending at Oroville Lake, followed by the inevitable (and substantial) climb back out. The turn-off from 70 isn’t signed as Dark Canyon—check Googlemaps, because you’ve got a couple of turns to negotiate.

Hwy 70 to the southwest from Lunt is a dreadful ride—long interminable unvarying descents or climbs (depending on which way you’re going) on shoulders with 70-mph indifferent cars whizzing by.  But if you head northeast on 70 from Lunt, you’ll climb about 3 more easy miles, then do a dramatic 5-mile descent down to the Feather River canyon.  After you meet the river, you’ve got c. 40 miles of nearly flat, scenically stunning riding to the junction with Hwy 89.  An established route is to ride to the last of the 3 tunnels (you can’t miss them) and turn around, because by then you’ve seen the most dramatic of the rock displays, though the scenery stays rewarding all the way to the junction.  The river canyon also has several hydro-electric dams and a very active rail line, so if you’re part engineer or train guy you’ll be fascinated.  It sounds like a perfect ride, but few cyclists do it, because the traffic is fast and heavy, the shoulder is non-existent, and the road contour is made for 60 mph (boring).  There are a couple of rest-stop bathrooms along the route.

You intersect the Table Mountain loop a few miles down 70 to the south.

The dome store

Oroville to Forbestown

Distance: 31 miles out and back
Elevation gain: 2760 ft

This is a nice, pretty climb from the edge of the Sacramento Valley up through the foothills and into the cedar forests of the western Sierra with a classic mountain store as a destination and a sweet potable spring along the way.   It’s pretty much all up, but with lots of variety in the scenery and the riding conditions so it’s never a slog. Continue reading

Paradise to Butte Meadows

Distance: 54 miles out and back
Elevation gain: 5770 ft

(A Best of the Best ride)

Update 11/18: The Camp Fire raced through Paradise and parts of Magalia in the days following 11/8/18.  Paradise was destroyed.  The first couple of miles of this route are scorched by the fire.  The rest of the route is undamaged.  JR

This ride actually starts in Magalia, the small community just up the hill from Paradise, CA, but who doesn’t want to ride in Paradise?  The route strings together four distinct rides, three of them treats, and the other…well it gets you from one of the treats to the next.  The four rides are, in order: a classic rolling stair-stepper, a short fast descent followed by a long straight slow upwards slog (the non-treat), a perfect serpentining climb through NorCal pine-and-cedar forest, and a rolling ramble across the top of the world on a spanking new (as of 2013) state-of-the-art mountain road.

This is a demanding ride with a lot of elevation gain.  If you want less, see Shortening the Route below.

Leg #1 of the ride is Coutolenc Rd.  Drive to the intersection of the Skyway and Coutelenc in downtown Magalia, CA, just past the last dregs of Paradise if you’ve coming from Chico.  Park in the dirt parking area on your immediate R as you turn onto Coutelenc, and ride up Coutelenc.  As I mentioned, you begin riding in fire devastation but soon leave the burn behind.  This is a lovely 7 miles of short climbs and big rollers with great variety of contour that ends in a 1.5-mile climb that’s just long enough and steep enough to give you a workout without becoming burdensome.

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miles of esses above Stirling City

Coutolenc dead-ends back at the Skyway.  Turn R and do Leg #2, the ride to Stirling City.   This leg is not something I hold dear.  It’s 3.4 miles consisting of a straight, fast descent followed by a straight boring ascent.  But we need it to get to a stretch of road I love: Leg #3, the 6 miles of road between Stirling City and Inskip.   On the map it looks like nothing, but it’s a perfect climb through pleasant pine and cedar forest.  It’s a cozy, old, barely-two-lane road with no shoulder and surprisingly good road surface that stairsteps its way steadily upward, getting curvier as it goes, and never steeper than 7%.   The trees along the road have been thinned for a fire break for much of the route, which allows for good views of the impressive West Branch of the Feather River canyon on your R.

At Inskip, which is really just an intersection and three abandoned buildings with no services or water, you begin Leg #4: the ride to Butte Meadows and the Bambi Inn.   Keep straight on through Inskip and immediately the road’s character changes.  As I said, it’s pretty new, and it’s a sterling example of the road-builder’s art.  It’s straighter and more open than the older road you just did, with smooth, polished curves.  You continue to climb at about the same pitch until you reach a not-obvious summit with a large dirt turn-out usually occupied by quads and trailers.  There is a momentary glimpse of Mt. Lassen through the trees at the summit, the only such vista on the ride.

From the summit on you roll gently up and down across the ridge between the Feather River Canyon and Chico Creek Canyon, the easiest part of the ride. About a mile past the summit, go L at the unmissable Y—there is a road sign marking the two roads, but it’s been shot to pieces by good old boys who couldn’t find any cows to shoot at.

When the road turns noticeably down, you’ve begun the short drop into Butte Meadows.  Butte Meadows is a large grouping of cabins spread out for miles along the crossing road, Humboldt Rd.  At the intersection of Humboldt Rd and the Skyway is the famous Bambi Inn, an unrepentant country biker saloon.  If saloons aren’t your sort of place (and they aren’t mine), you have two other choices for resupply.  Just up Humboldt Road to the R is the Butte Meadows Mercantile, a very casual and friendly spot with simple sandwiches, ice cream, and the like.  Don’t miss the outside benches made out of old wagon seats.  A bit further on is The Outpost, a more traditional mountain restaurant.  All three of these places tend to be for sale or closed at unexpected times, so it’s wise to check out their current status before riding.

Coutelenc's very nice too

Coutelenc’s very nice too

Now turn around and do it all in reverse.  You’ll climb up from Butte Meadows (not as bad as the drop-in would lead you to believe), roll back to the summit, then it’s all sweet descending to Stirling City.  From Inskip to Stirling City is simply spectacular, an ideal slalom course with banked corners, good road surface, and good enough sight lines that you’ll see (most) on-coming cars (and there will be at least one or two) in advance.   This leg is in our Best Descents list.  You’ll wish there was a chairlift so you could do it twice.

West Branch of the Feather River canyon above Stirling City

The big descent just after Stirling City is probably the fastest, straightest descent in Bestrides—you can top 50 mph if that’s your goal.   Watch for one nasty pothole in an otherwise-glassy surface.  There’s a nice 40-mph curve across a creek and a following uphill at the run-out, so you can go as fast as you dare.

When you get back to the top of Coutolenc, Coutelenc itself is a sweet ride back, but it’s rolling and has a surprising amount of climbing to it, so if you are spent or just crave variety you can go straight instead of turning L and continue down the Skyway to the intersection with the bottom of Coutelenc and your car.  It’s just a tad longer, and much more developed, but it’s a much faster descent (you’ll be around 25-30 mph for much of the time), on a bigger, more trafficked road with much more sweeping turns.   You’ll do some trafficky shoulder riding as you ride through the developed section of Magalia, just before you reach your car.

Shortening the route: You can ride from Stirling City to Butte Meadows and back, or from Stirling City to the summit above Inskip. You could also ride from Inskip to Butte Meadows or just ride Coutelenc—both nice rides—but to do either is to miss the descent from Inskip to Stirling City, which is  the jewel in the crown for this ride.

Adding miles: If you want to add a few pleasant, mostly-easy miles to the route, you can go L or R from Bambi Inn and ride Humboldt Rd.  Going R is easier.  Going L adds 5.4 miles one way, to the intersection of Humboldt and Hwy 32, called “Lomo” in local lore though there is nothing there.  The last couple of miles to Lomo are a fast descent, which means you get a couple of miles of vigorous (8%) ascent coming back.  Going R gives you 6.0 miles one way of nearly flat to Jonesville (with some noticeable climbing in the last mile).  Do both legs out and back and you add 23 miles and 2440 ft of vert to the ride.  A mile past Jonesville the road turns to dirt—gravel bikes can continue on over Humbug Summit or Humboldt Summit (the road forks where the pavement ends) to Lake Almanor.  One road is reported to be an excellent surface; the other is a nightmare.  Choose wisely.

Lomo is the beginning to our Highway 32 Canyons ride.  So you could ride from Chico to Paradise, over to Butte Meadows, down Humboldt to Lomo, up 32 to Lassen National Park, through the park and back, then down to Red Bluff, then find a bus to Chico, thus bagging 3 fine Bestrides routes in one loop.  I’m just saying.

If you want a big ride you could actually do in a day, locals do a loop that goes from Chico up Honey Run to Paradise, up the Paradise Bike Path to Magalia, along our route to Butte Meadows, L on Humboldt Rd to Hwy 32 and 32 to Chico.  But that stretch of Hwy 32 is wide, tedious, unvaried, and heavily trafficked, so I’m not recommending it.  The loop is 80+ miles, very strenuous, and works equally well in either direction.

If you want a mellow warm-up before hitting Coutelenc, there is the afore-mentioned Paradise Bicycle Path.  It was a pleasant, albeit straight, paved rail-to-trail conversion that runs the length of the town of Paradise, CA, paralleling the main road, The Skyway, and typically about 50 yards to the southeast.  I don’t know what shape it’s since since the fire.  It’s a steady 3% grade and about a 20-minute ride dead-ending at the Skyway a stone’s throw below the starting point for our ride.  If you want to ride all of it, it starts at the intersection of the Skyway and Neal Rd, immediately after Paradise turns into real town, though you can cross it by driving further up the Skyway and turning R on any street.

Afterthoughts: Stirling City is big on loose dogs.  I’ve never been bitten, but if you hate dogs prepare to be a little freaked out.   Stirling City also has a nifty little museum devoted to local history, which is all about the lumber industry and the gigantic lumber mill the town was built around.  Its hours are unpredictable.

Re-supplying is a challenge in this ride.  You can get water at Merlo Park 1/2 mile off our route on your R as you enter Stirling City (signed at the turn-off)—IF the park is open—or at the Mercantile, the Outpost, or Bambi Inn in Butte Meadows—IF they’re open.  There is a ramshackle building as you make the turn in Stirling City with a sign out front that says “Country Store” (sometimes) and a sign over the front door saying “Hotel Lobby”—that’s all I know about it.   The one sure bet is the Stirling City Museum, which has a functioning water bib on the outside corner facing you as you ride up.