Distance: 14.6 mi. out and back Elevation gain: 2225 ft
Kaiser Pass is not my favorite ride in the area. In fact, I’d say it’s only pretty good. But when I was preparing to ride in the area, everyone I talked to said it was the premiere ride east of Fresno. So, because it’s likely that you’ll hear the same, I’m going to describe it so you know what you’re getting into.
Kaiser Pass Road is a 7.3-mile climb from the east end of Huntington Lake to the summit. Its consummate virtue, in this area, is that it isn’t burned. The maps of the Creek Fire show it burning all around Huntington Lake, and in fact the south shore is largely burned once you get away from the shoreline, but KPR itself is entirely, sweetly lined with healthy conifers. Still, the bulk of the ride I find slightly monotonous Green Wall riding. On the return, the descent is long, straight, and fast, so if you like such things this might be the ride for you.
Start at the intersection of Hwy 168 and Kaiser Pass Rd. The climbing begins immediately—if you want to warm up, the 6 miles of Huntington Lake Rd. along the north shore are easy rollers and totally pleasant riding.
The lower miles—note the road surface
Tthe first 5 miles of KPS I find tedious—Unvaried moderate climbing on a big, wide, relatively straight road without distinguishing feature or variety. About 2 miles from the summit, the road completely changes character—from big to small, from straight to meandering, from an unvaried pitch to up and down, from smooth road surface to sketchy. The landscape improves, because you get above the green wall and start seeing some nice granite. Now you’re IN the Sierra instead of riding past it. I like those last 2 miles a lot. Near the end of the ride there are some nice vistas looking westward over the terrain you’ve just traversed, all unburned forest.
The upper miles
The pass itself is easy to miss. There is a false summit and some signs for turn-offs to Badger Flat just before it, but there is no signage at the summit itself—only two outhouses, a dirt parking area, and a slight downhill to the east. Of course Kaiser Pass Rd. continues on, but the road surface becomes even sketchier (see Adding Miles below).
Once back to the wide, smooth road, the return ride is that sort of thing you may love and I don’t: a 35-45 mph rocket-sled descent without much to do except sit there, in a straight line or on the occasional curve so gentle it might as well be straight. The road surface consists mostly of those little vertical grooves cut into the pavement to aid car traction in the snow, and it’s just disruptive enough to be a slight flea in the ear.
From near the top looking westward
Shortening the ride: Depending on your taste, you might prefer the first 5 miles or the second 2.
Adding miles: As I mentioned, the miles along the north shore of Huntington Lake (Huntington Lake Rd.) are a pleasant, pretty way to add 12 miles (out and back), with some classic, unpretentious Sierra mountain lake resorts along the route. Fire damage is nil until the very west end.
You can continue riding east past the Pass. The road runs for c. 17 more miles, mostly moderate descending, and becomes rougher and smaller, until it’s little more than a track. It takes you to Mono Hot Springs, a locale of considerable interest, and then on to Edison Lake, where it dead-ends just past the Vermilion Valley Resort, which offers you the possibility of overnighting before the ride out. I hear good things about it. Streetview will let you preview almost the entire route.
You can continue riding west from our starting point, but both alternatives have their drawbacks, Hwy 168 has some nice contour but can be very trafficky (especially on weekends), and Big Creek Rd. (discussed at length in the Million Dollar Road ride) is a dauntingly steep descent.
Distance: 25.3 mi. out and back Elevation gain: 2988 ft
This is one of the many good foothill rides in the area between Fresno/Clovis and Shaver Lake. This short out-and-back has two features that make it stand out from the others:
1. A killer descent. It’s 9 miles of 30-45-mph rocket sled ride on near-perfect road surface through short straights and wide, lazy turns. Pretty much bliss.
2. The vista. For much of the climb, you can see forever to the west and north. A lot of it was hit by the great Creek Fire burn of 2020, and it’s pretty scrubby landscape anyway, but it’s big.
Of course that descent means the ride out is 9 miles of uninterrupted moderate climbing through the local roadside scenery, which, thanks to the Creek Fire, is nothing special—scrub, with the occasional low-rent ranch—and were it not for that descent and the view, it would be a fairly generic ride.
The Clovis valley sees 100-degree temps in the summer. This ride is just out of the valley, so expect summer temps well into the 90’s. Thanks to the fire, there is little shade. Ride in the spring or the morning.
Begin in the town of Auberry, which miraculously contains two automotive garages and a fine mom-and-pop grocery store, and almost nothing else. Ride to the end of Auberry Rd., then ride back.
Kinda generic going up, swell coming down
If you’re looking for food after the ride, I recommend Velasco’s in nearby Prather.
Shortening the ride: Turn around anywhere on the climb. The further you ride, the longer the descent.
Adding miles: You can loop this ride by riding from the town of Auberry on Lodge Rd. to Toll House Rd. to the east end of Auberry Rd. back to Auberry. There’s an even bigger loop consisting of Auberry Rd. heading westward from Auberry to Millerton Rd. to Toll House Rd. to the east end of Auberry Rd. and back to Auberry. Just remember to ride any loop counter-clockwise, so you get the Auberry Rd. downhill.
From the town of Auberry, Power House Rd. is also worth riding.
For a more extensive discussion of riding the region’s foothill roads, see the Adding Miles section of the Million Dollar Road ride. For details on the unpleasantness of Jose Basin Rd., see again the Adding Miles section of the Million Dollar Road ride
Distance: 14.4 mi. out and back Elevation gain: 1324 ft
This, along with the Kaiser Pass ride and the Auberry Rd. ride, is Bestrides’ introduction to the rich riding region east of Fresno. I’ve just dipped a toe into the area’s resources. In the Adding Miles section of this entry I survey the area’s possibilities beyond what I’ve ridden. If you’re going to the area to ride, be sure to read that discussion.
Of our three area roads, Million Dollar Road is the best, a dramatic and memorable ride, and easy to boot. It’s 7.5 miles long and I expect you to do it as an out-and-back, though there’s a sweet 11-mile add-on at the turn-around and a looping option, both of which I’ll discuss in Adding Miles. It’s a relatively flat road (I don’t know where RWGPS is getting its figures, but I did no work) along a steep sidehill through a dramatic rocky San Joaquin River canyon. The rock cuts on your shoulder and the cliff walls across the river are grand. If you’re a rock person like I am, this is your ride.
The ride is a tranquil piece of cake (unless you’re troubled by exposure), but it’s hard to get to if you come to it from the south. From the town of Auberry you have 10.6 miles of Jose Basin Rd., a one-lane, battered, twisty 10-mph nerve-racker full of deadly blind corners through unrewarding scrub. I found the drive in much more taxing than the bike ride. It may be easier to come from the west, via Italian Bar Rd. Jose Basin does offer one benefit: miles before you get to MDR you see the San Joaquin River Canyon in front of and far below you, and you can see MDR itself carving its way along the R side of the canyon (see photo below). I know of no other ride you can see the length of from a distance in this way—very dramatic.
MDR is an access road for service vehicles getting to the hydroelectric dam at the north end of the road and the powerhouse, both of which you’ll see on the ride. You can expect to see perhaps one pick-up. The road is a fat one-lane with good pavement throughout, despite RWGPS’s insistence that much of it is gravel.
From Jose Basin Road: Million Dollar Road crosses the canyon wall in the distance
Like most of the geography northwest of Shaver Lake, MDR burned in the devastating Creek Fire of 2020. But the canyon is almost entirely rock, so the effect on the scenery was next to nil. You will see a lot of fire damage on the drive in.
As I said, getting to the ride is harder than doing it. Out of Auberry, go up Auberry Rd. briefly to Jose Basin Rd. and take JBR. In c. 6 miles the road forks (without signage) and the two forks apparently of equal importance. The L fork seems to head down into the canyon while the R fork stays level. Take the L fork, which is now Italian Bar Rd. Incredibly, my GPS was working at the fork and the roads were labeled. Drive to the river. Million Dollar Road obviously takes off to the R at the prominent spot where the river turns from south to west and IBR follows it. There is a small dirt parking area just W of the intersection. There is no road signage.
Looking at Million Dollar Road
At the start of MDR you must get through a massive gate, with the usual signs warning you the risks and liabilities you’re undertaking by proceeding. It’s .a bitch to get around, over, or under, so if you’re alone (as I was) I recommend waiting for a hiker to come along to help you with the task. This shouldn’t take long—the road seems to be under the radar for cyclists but is well-known to hikers, who come for the falls. On my ride I saw about a dozen walkers.
There are no forks or options on MDR itself. Ride to the dam and a dead-end intersection with an unexpected street sign telling you you’re at the intersection of Big Creek Powerhouse and Big Creek Powerhouse (sic), the Big Creek powerhouse being what you get to if you continue on the new road to the R.—maps call this new road Canyon Rd. (more on this later).
You can’t miss the falls—they’re big and beautiful and the road bisects them on a bridge. I did the ride in late July and there was plenty of water—a hiker told me in the spring when the waters are high they cover the road. So don’t do the ride then.
If you’re a fan of electric grids, there’s a large relay station on the banks of the river right when you start the ride—it’s easy to miss on the way out but clearly visible at the end of the return ride.
The canyon wall
Shortening the ride: There’s no particular reason to, but you can turn around at the waterfall. The road is slightly steeper in the second half.
Adding Miles: Everything discussed in this section is riding I haven’t done.
At the turn-around point of our ride you’re at the intersection with Canyon Rd., which runs east to Big Creek (hence the street sign reading “Big Creek Powerhouse”). It’s a 5.8-minute (one way) ride dead-ending at Big Creek Rd., the back road from Shaver Lake to Huntington Lake, a ride I’ll be recommending in a minute. Canyon is all seriously up heading east (2033 ft gain in 5.8 mi.) and it runs directly through the Creek Fire burn, so the landscape is devastated, but the road was recently repaved so the surface is impeccable, the road contour is delicious (very curvy), and the scenery is really rather awesome in an apocalyptic sort of way (see photo below).
You can turn L (the other way) on Canyon Rd. and continue up the river. I’m not sure what it’s like, thought it’s paved at least for a while.
You can make a loop that includes Million Dollar Rd., though it involves some rough or trafficky riding. You can start the loop anywhere, but I suggest you start in Auberry to get Jose Basin Rd. out of the way early. Ride from Auberry to Million Dollar Rd., up MDR, east on Canyon, then at the intersection with Big Creek Rd. take BCR (you’ll have to get through another intimidating gate like the one for MDR, closing off Canyon Rd. to the public) west to Shaver Lake. This leg is a demanding, splendid, constantly serpentining climb on a great road surface—one of the best stretches of road in the area, if you don’t mind the burn. Ride Hwy 168 along Shaver Lake and continue on it down toward the valley and back to Auberry. Hwy 168 is sometimes blessed with a great road contour and sometimes straight as a stick, but it’s always trafficky (trebly so on weekends) and I’d never choose to ride it unless I was keen to complete this loop. I’d map it for you but RWGDP won’t let me map MDR (because it’s gated and officially “private” I suppose). If you do this loop, you are almost entirely beyond the reach of water resupply, so plan accordingly.
Canyon Road seen from Big Creek Road
If you want to explore the other riding in the area:
The best road in the area not in Bestrides is Big Creek Rd., part of the Million Dollar Rd. loop described above. Sometimes confusing called Huntington Lake Rd. on maps, it’s the backroad alternative to Hwy 168. About 10 miles long, it begins (west to east) with about 6 miles of delicious serpentine descending on excellent road surface, then, at the unexpectedly large community of Big Creek the road goes to rough-hewn one- lane and turns up—extremely, unforgivingly up, as in lots of 12-16%—for the remaining 4 miles to Huntington Lake. One of the hardest climbs I’ve ever seen. The country to the north is Creek Fire devastation, but you can see forever and the view is really quite magnificent (though admittedly not pretty). Ride it all (you could continue on along the lake shoreline, 6 miles of perfectly pleasant rollers, then ride our Kaiser Pass ride, or loop back on the trafficky Hwy 168), or skip the killer climb and just descend to Big Creek and turn around.
There are three long, medium-sized roads with good road contour in the area: Beasore, Minarets, and Dinkey Creek. Beasore Rd. has the bonus of Jones Store, a classic country store of some renown. It can be looped by taking the road that goes R just beyond the store and goes over to Minarets, Grizzly Meadows Rd., which I think is paved. It has the huge advantage over Minarets that it escaped the Creek Fire.
Minarets Rd. used to be a plumb ride, but it was devastated in the fire, and reports are that riding it is now a grim experience.
Dinkey Creek has a nice contour and is outside the Creek Fire burn area, and it has two bonuses: McKinley Grove, a small, blissfully uncrowded grove of giant sequoias (I went to see the giant sequoias in Sequoia National Park this summer and couldn’t get a parking space), and Courtright Way (not Road), a small, quirky little road that goes from the east end of Dinkey north to Courtright Reservoir. You can preview it on Streetview.
At the east end of Trimmer Springs Rd. is a road worthy of special mention: Black Rock Rd. (Vomac Rd. for its first few miles). Small and twisty, it passes through Balch Camp and proceeds to Black Rock Reservoir (12 mi.) on pavement, then continues on reportedly technical dirt northward all the way to the eastern end of Dinkey Rd. Word is, the canyon scenery is at first grand, then gets even better as the road passes through Granite Gorge. Ride as far as you are able. The Balch Camp area in 7/25 suffered a forest fire, and I don’t know how that impacted the riding conditions.
Most of the roads in this Added Miles section are snowed in in winter and sport a delicious 70-75% high temp in mid-summer. If you want to ride in the spring, the roads in the foothills (between the Clovis/Fresno valley and the mountains) are said to be lovely riding when everything is still green. Try Watts Valley Rd., Maxon Rd., Burrough Valley Rd., Toll House Rd., Lodge Rd., Millerton Rd., Pittman Hill Rd., Auberry Rd., Powerhouse Rd.—which is pretty much all of them.
This is the only ride in the immediate Tahoe area in Bestrides. That’s because I don’t like the riding around Tahoe. I know it’s legendary, especially the ride around the lake. The century that circumnavigates the lake is one of the most popular centuries in the country. I’ve ridden in the Tahoe area a lot, including around the lake several times, and in my opinion it all sucks. The roads, at least in summer, are insanely crowded. The ride around the lake is 1/3 faux Vegas, 1/3 Tahoe City gridlock, 1/6 a slow tedious climb up Hwy 28 to 50 on a shoulder amidst whizzing cars, and 1/6 actually not bad stuff around Emerald Bay, if you don’t mind narrow, rough roads with no shoulder crowded with tourists gawking at the scenery. But aren’t the views of the lake majestic? Yes, for the stretch around Emerald Bay. The rest of the loop, the lake can’t be seen.
The roads radiating out from the lake— 89 and 267 to the north, , 431 and 50 to the east, 89 to the south—are all straight, monotonous shoulder rides with lots of traffic (admittedly 89 to Truckee is easy and pretty—the rest are tough climbs). Hwy 50 towards Sacramento would be a lovely ride if it weren’t heavily trafficked—I’ve never seen a bike on it or heard of anyone riding it.
OK, but what about the bike paths? Lake Tahoe is bike path central. There’s a path that runs along the road on the west side of the lake from Tahoe City to Sugar Pine Point, a path that runs along the Truckee River almost to Squaw Valley, a path that runs along the south shore from near the Y (the Hwy 89/Hwy 50 intersection) past the Tallac Historic Site, and a path that runs south from the lake to Meyers along Hwy 50. They’re all fun at 8 mph on a cruiser or mountain bike, but they’re too small-scale for a road bike. The prettiest by far is the Truckee River trail, and in season it’s packed with pedestrians.
Then there’s the Fallen Leaf Lake Road, a 10-mile out-and-back to a famously lovely little lake with a nice waterfall, Glen Alpine Falls, on the back side. It’s in all the guides to Tahoe-area riding, and it’s the worst ride I’ve ever done on a bike—one lane of atrocious pavement that’s busy, even in the off-season, with cars, half of them in the act of backing up and pulling off the road to make room for the other half going the other way. I did this ride in November, when everything around the lake was closed, and the car traffic was still awful—on some stretches I had to pull off the road every minute or two to let a car pass me.
But if you’re a Californian who likes to travel you’re going to spend time around Tahoe, and even hell has one good road ride, so luckily there’s South Upper Truckee Road. I’d be tempted to add the ride to Bestrides on the name alone (I wish it were Old South Upper Truckee Road, but one can’t have everything—as we shall see, it’s actually Lower South Upper Truckee Rd.). But it’s also a very sweet ride. It’s only 11.5 miles long, but in that space you get a stiff 3.5-mile climb, gorgeous scenery, serious solitude, and a fast, straight descent. The road surface on SUTR can be rough, so our route doesn’t descent it, but instead comes down Luther Pass Rd., which is a wide-open, straight 35-45-mph shot. The scenery is typical Tahoe aspen, granite, and pine—gorgeous—but the road is essentially one lane and you are IN the landscape in a way you never can be on larger roads. It isn’t a long enough ride to fill a day, so do it and drive south to the better rides around Markleeville and Hope Valley.
November proved a little late for the annual aspen color display
Park at the intersection of Hwy 50 and South Upper Truckee Road, just west of Hwy 89 and the agricultural inspection station. There’s plenty of roadside dirt on SUTR. For 3.2 miles you’re on flat ground among houses as you follow the Upper Truckee River, the upper reaches of the river that runs out of Tahoe and down to the town of Truckee. Note how the first houses were built closest to Hwy 50, then later ones added further out, so as you ride they get newer and bigger, and still bigger, until the last house is spanking new and comically huge. You go through some nice aspen groves which must be stunning during the fall color (I was too late). You pass the clearly marked trailhead for the Hawley Grade National Recreation Trail, which is reputed to be nice for hiking.
Boulder heaven
Soon after the houses end, the road turns up, and is constantly 8-12% for the next 3.5 miles. These miles are why you’ve come. Since Hwy 89 goes to the same place, there is no reason why a car should be on this road (unless they’re shuttling mountain bikes—see below) and you should have it to yourself. It twists and turns deliciously, the road surface has some nastiness, and it gets very narrow—It’s signed “one-lane” at the top. This is about as close to a mountain-bike trail ride as pavement can get. I love the scenery—scattered pines and boulders. This is probably the best boulder ride west of Boulder. At the bottom of the climb you pass the downhill end of a busy mountain bike trail, which may involve you in some traffic.
After 4.6 miles you meet up again with Hwy 89, and you could turn L and ride the rocket ship back to your car, but our route crosses 89 and continues up a completely unsigned road with an intimidating gate (open except in winter) that is in fact more of SUTR—it is quite literally Upper South Upper Truckee Road. Continuing on has its risks—this 1.2-mile leg goes by a very large campground, then passes Big Meadows, perhaps the biggest of the trailheads on the Tahoe Rim Trail. So I would imagine it’s hectic in summer. I did it in November, and it was deserted. It’s also utterly delightful, with all the virtues of lower Upper, but curvier and with much better pavement. It also has the novelty of being utterly unsigned at both ends—given the activity along this road, that’s inexplicable.
When Upper Upper T’s into Hwy 89 (again) at 5.8 miles, turn downhill, to the R (it’s easy to go the wrong way), and strap in for the 3-mile dead straight 7% descent, then 3 miles of flats that take you to 89.
Shortening the route: Not a lot of options here. Start where the houses end. Turn onto Hwy 89 when the route first intersects it.
Adding Miles: See the beginning of this post.
At the top of this ride you’re 2/3 of the way to Luther Pass, after which it’s a straight, fast descent to Hope Valley and all the Bestrides riches in the area.
A ride slightly out of the Tahoe area, not quite Bestrides-worthy but totally worth doing once, is Donner Pass Road, which parallels Hwy 80 from Cisco Grove to Truckee. It’s 23 miles one way, so it makes a nice out-and-back with one significant hill. From Cisco Grove it’s 13 miles of steady, mild climbing to the Donner Summit Bridge, where there’s a vista point with an unforgettable view of Donner Lake below you, then the one thrilling moment in the ride, an 1100-ft drop through two big esses to the lake. Donner Pass Road follows the north shore of the lake, and it’s fine, but I prefer taking South Shore Dr. on the other side, which is quieter. Both routes are lined with vacation homes. South Shore goes directly through Donner Memorial State Park, then rejoins Donner Pass Rd., which goes through unappealing modern Truckee and ends in the old, charming downtown.
Old Meyers Grade, aka Lincoln Highway Trail, forks off South Upper Truckee Rd. immediately after the beginning of our ride and climbs rather steeply for about 1.5 miles to Hwy 50 (see Don’s comment below). Where it dead-ends, you can go R on Hwy 50 for about 50 ft and take a very small, unmarked one-lane road on your L, Echo Lake Road (though there is no signage), which continues on for two more miles to Echo Lake. It’s a wild and wooly ride on poor pavement. The last time I was there, OMG was gated off at both ends but the gate was jumpable.
There is a North Upper Truckee Rd., almost directly across Hwy 50 from the beginning of South Upper Truckee, but it isn’t worth riding—it looks appealing from the highway, but it’s soon mired in mountain subdivisions.
Afterthoughts: Once back at the intersection of 89 and 50, you can do a very short ride up 50 toward the lake and eat at Pretty Odd Wieners, a highly rated hot dog stand (actually a trailer) in a gas station parking lot on the R. Or a stone’s throw up 50 from the intersection on the L is Burger Lounge, whose burgers are the standard by which all others are measured.
If you’re like me, you think Bakersfield is flat, which is what you see driving through on Hwy 5. But a Friend of Bestrides wrote in to say I had to overcome my prejudices and try the area. It turns out that Bakersfield, while it is smack in the middle of the San Joaquin Valley, is at the Valley’s southernmost tip, so it’s surrounded closely on 3 sides by mountains like the Tehachapis, and there are good roads in those mountains. The Caliente Loop is the jewel in the crown.
But there’s a problem: I can’t decide which direction is better. I rode the loop counter-clockwise. Most locals ride it clockwise. I’ll describe my ride; then we’ll weigh pros and cons of the two directions.
The loop (called Lion’s Trail by the locals) is essentially three different rides: a gentle meander through a small, rocky creek canyon; a flat and rolling leg across a wide valley dotted with horse farms and sagebrush, and a descent of epic proportions with vistas of the canyons on both sides of the road.
Caliente Creek Road in October
This is a ride you want to time correctly, and the window is small: ideally you’d ride in the spring, when the creek you’ll follow for the first 20 miles is babbling and the grassy fields of the second leg are green. But spring means spring run-off, and any significant run-off closes the road, because Caliente Creek Rd. has several places where high run-off water flows right over the roadway. I’d expect to find a “road closed” sign and ford some streams any time before the dry season.
Summer poses its own problems. Bakersfield in the summer is hot and often windy, and the middle leg through Walker Basin is totally exposed. On a typical summer day I’d start early enough to get through Walker Basin by 10 AM.
One more word of warning: you will notice the road surface is sprinkled with the remains of dried cow patties. Cows put them there. This is open range, and you may meet cows standing in the middle of the road at almost any point. Continue reading →
(This route has been closed for the past couple of years due to rockslide damage, but is now fully open.)
I’m not a great fan of riding in National Parks. They’re too crowded, they aren’t bike friendly, and they usually have only one or two paved roads, onto which thousands of cars are funneled and forced to fight for room. Our Lassen Volcanic NP ride is an exception, made attractive only because almost no one goes there and you can have the road largely to yourself. (The Yosemite tour is there because Yosemite is too imposing to ignore.)
Another exception is Kings Canyon/Sequoia National Park(s). They’re two parks, but they’re contiguous, so everyone thinks of them as one. You often aren’t sure which of the two you’re in. The riding is excellent and extensive. While Yosemite offers you two roads and Lassen one, KC/S has no less than ten paved roads, and they’re all well worth riding. Not a lot of people seem to know this. In my five days of riding in the two parks, the only person I saw on a bicycle of any sort—road bike, mountain bike, BMX, cruiser—was me.
Of course there is always the traffic problem. I wouldn’t go near any National Park in high season, and even during the shoulder seasons (spring and fall) I adhere strictly to the EMOW rule: ride Early Morning, Only on Weekdays. I did my KC/S riding in late September, and my EMOW rides saw a car per mile or less.
The ride outlined here is the best of the ten, by a long shot, one of the best rides I know of anywhere and a hands-down Best of the Best ride. It’s an 8-mile descent into a rock canyon of indescribable grandeur, then an 18-mile meander between towering granite and marble walls and through a beautiful glacial valley along a perfect Sierra stream. If you ride for the Wow Factor, if you love to be awed, this is the ride for you. There may be other rides as pretty or as pleasant, but none more mighty and imposing. Photos can’t do it justice.
I’ve mapped the ride from the obvious starting place, but if you want to get the climbing out of the way first (and I’m with you), drive to Convict Flat Overlook, park, ride back up the hill to the forest line, turn around and descend to your car, then continue on to Road’s End and turn around.
It’s a big ride—69 miles, 8000 ft of gain. In Shortening the ride I’ll show you ways to cut it down that maintain the grandeur.
By the way, the name of the park and the canyon is Kings Canyon, not King’s Canyon. It’s a translation of Canon de los Reyes, “Canyon of the Magi.”
Distance: 23.6 miles out and back Elevation gain: 1730 ft
This ride isn’t thrilling. But if you’re in the mood for a mellow jaunt through pretty High-Sierra country, you can’t beat it. It’s a idyllic ride, perfect for a recovery day after you’ve tackled one of the harder rides in the area—Carson Pass, Ebbetts Pass, or Monitor Pass—or for a day when you only have an hour or two in the morning or evening to ride. It’s all easy climbing (1730 ft. in 24 miles), with a brilliant blue Sierra lake at the turn-around for snacking or meditation.
Distance: 67 miles one way Elevation gain: 3015 ft
Here’s the rare opportunity to ride 67 miles in one direction, all of it really good. This ride is a trip through a lovely aspen-strewn Sierra valley, a famous climb up and over the most scenic of California passes, a long stair-stepping descent back to the foothills, a slalom course through vacation home country, and a final mellow leg though a classic old farming valley. It’s more than anyone is going to ride as an out and back, which is OK because I can only recommend it in one direction, east to west. See Shortening the route below for tips on how to arrange a manageable day if you don’t have a shuttle. I did the ride as part of a 4-day loop tour that started in Sacramento and passed by Lake Tahoe.
The Death Ride has made its three summits—Carson, Monitor, and Ebbetts—famous. The three climbs are very different. Carson Pass—included in the Carson Pass Plus ride—is an almost straight slog whose selling point is its magnificent vistas. Monitor Pass is a monotonous, seemingly endless grind up through featureless high desert country I find esthetically without merit, though in truth you can see a long way from it. Many riders love it. I think it comes down to how you feel about 50-mph descents. I don’t care for them, so Monitor isn’t in my list.
Ebbetts Pass, on the other hand, is one of the four or five best rides in California, a challenging but always rewarding climb along rocky steams and through pretty Sierra Nevada forest surrounded by classic High Sierra granite and big canyon views, with a road contour that is constantly varying—no long, tedious slogs, I promise. And the descent is even better—very much in the running for best descent in California. The road surface is as good as a road surface that experiences California high-country winters can be—the top few miles are a bit rough on the descent but most of it is close to glass.
Highway 4 is a “major” route through the Sierras, but it has little traffic, because most cars choose other routes. Unless you’re doing this ride on a summer weekend (never a good idea), once you leave Carson River, which is busy with fishermen in the summer, you should be pretty much alone. I last rode it on a weekday morning in September, and I saw 15 vehicles, or slightly more than a car every two miles. And the sight lines are grand, so the few on-coming cars announce themselves in advance.
The Carson River canyon before sunrise
Ebbetts Pass is closed by snow in the winter. It’s usually plowed sometime in late June. Check highway reports before heading out there.
You shouldn’t need to resupply water on this ride, but if you do, there are two formal campgrounds along Hwy 4. On hot days I take a third water bottle and cache it when the climbing gets taxing.
(Note 2022: Yosemite, Mariposa, and the surrounding region have been hit hard by forest fires in the last 2 years. The Mariposa area was on fire in the summer of 2022. I don’t know how severely the riding has been impacted, but the effect of the fires must have been significant.)
I was introduced to this four-day tour by the Sacramento Bike Hikers, who used to do it every year. The loop has enormous scenic variety and an iconic destination that amps up the drama from the first pedal stroke. Not every mile is rewarding. There’s some boring flat straight stuff in the beginning, there’s some traffic dodging on the Yosemite roads, there are two stretches of rough road surface, and there are way too many people in the Park. Yet it remains a grand, bucket-list experience. Just say it with me: “riding my bike to Yosemite.” You’re down for it, I know.
It’s not at all daunting. The climbing is mostly quite mellow, and there’s only one longish day, and that’s almost all downhill. For that and other reasons, I don’t recommend trying to shorten the ride. This is one of those rides you want to keep epic. Try to talk a friend into driving a sag wagon. But I’m a realist, so after we walk through the tour we’ll talk about ways to shorten it.
If you have a National Park pass of some sort, remember to pack it and your ID before setting forth. It does no good to remember it on Day 3 as you approach the Park entrance.
Day 1: Merced to Mariposa
Distance: 49 miles one way Elevation gain: 2630 ft