{"id":55,"date":"2020-04-20T09:10:06","date_gmt":"2020-04-20T16:10:06","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/bestrides.org\/manual\/?page_id=55"},"modified":"2023-02-13T19:32:55","modified_gmt":"2023-02-14T03:32:55","slug":"how-to-ride-part-1-your-first-ride","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/bestrides.org\/bikeschool\/?page_id=55","title":{"rendered":"Your First Bike Ride"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/bestrides.org\/bikeschool\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/05\/fullsizeoutput_5488-768x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-564\" width=\"287\" height=\"382\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bestrides.org\/bikeschool\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/05\/fullsizeoutput_5488-768x1024.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/bestrides.org\/bikeschool\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/05\/fullsizeoutput_5488-225x300.jpeg 225w, https:\/\/bestrides.org\/bikeschool\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/05\/fullsizeoutput_5488-1152x1536.jpeg 1152w, https:\/\/bestrides.org\/bikeschool\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/05\/fullsizeoutput_5488-1536x2048.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/bestrides.org\/bikeschool\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/05\/fullsizeoutput_5488-624x832.jpeg 624w, https:\/\/bestrides.org\/bikeschool\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/05\/fullsizeoutput_5488-scaled.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 287px) 100vw, 287px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote is-layout-flow wp-block-quote-is-layout-flow\"><p><em>Pain is temporary, quitting lasts forever. (Lance Armstrong)<\/em><\/p><p>The journey of a thousand miles begins with the first pedal stroke. (Lao Tzu Chain)<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>How Uncomfortable Is Riding a Road Bike?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Before we begin, I\u2019m going to repeat what I said at the beginning of the Buying a Bike chapter, because it\u2019s a central concern of non-riders: how painful is riding a road bike? I know that before I took the plunge, I stopped people on road bikes and asked them, \u201cHow much does it hurt to ride one of those things?\u201d Non-riders know that road riding hurts your back, your butt, your hands, your neck, your feet, your knees, and probably a few other parts. These agonies are things cyclists put up with to go fast, right?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>No. Road riding is perfectly comfortable. No back pain. No knee pain. No butt pain. No nothing. It\u2019s all a myth. Pros commonly ride road bikes for 4-6 hours a day, every day, without pain. Racers in RAM (the Race Across America) ride for 24 hours a day for several days in a row, and if they do it right they feel only tiredness. Orthopedists often prescribe cycling for patients with knee pain.  If your road bike hurts you, in any way, that\u2019s a problem that needs to be fixed\u2014I\u2019ll help you figure out how, throughout this book.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The most notorious myth is, road riding causes back pain, because you\u2019re bent over like that. Again, no. I suffer from chronic lower back pain. A few times a year, I\u2019m stretched out on the floor unable to move. But on my worst day, if I can manage to get my leg over the top tube, I can ride my bike without discomfort. That\u2019s because bending over only hurts when you have to support that posture with your back muscles. On a bike, you\u2019re supporting yourself with your arms. To prove this, kneel down next to a bed and bend over, laying your chest on the mattress. Isn\u2019t that relaxing? See how that doesn\u2019t hurt your back?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I\u2019m going to assume that you know how to ride a bike to the grocery store, but you\u2019ve never ridden a road bike as a sport or serious recreation. What do you need to know to graduate from one to the other? There\u2019s a lot of ground to cover, so we\u2019ll do it in two parts: this chapter is all you need to know or do as you prepare for your first ride. The Advanced Skills chapter discusses the more advanced riding skills you can get by without on Day 1 but will want to start working on ASAP.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Be Mindful<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Everything in this chapter is a lot to think about while riding a bike, and, frankly, more is coming. You don\u2019t want to think about all of it all the time or you\u2019ll go nuts. If you want to not think about technique on a social ride, that\u2019s OK. Hey, if you never want to think about these things, that\u2019s OK\u2014you\u2019re allowed to \u201cjust ride your bike.\u201d Most people do just that. But I\u2019m frankly coming from another mindset, where you want to do things well, you want to make the riding as rewarding, as effortless, as efficient, as effective, as (dare I say it?) <em>artful<\/em> as possible. Because it\u2019s fun to do things right and well. It\u2019s what yoga practitioners call being mindful\u2014doing the deed consciously and with an intention of grace. If you\u2019re that sort of person\u2014if you\u2019re the sort of person who, if there\u2019s a better way to pedal, wants to know about it\u2014you\u2019ll want the stuff in this chapter and the next.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This way of thinking may seem strange\u2014after all, it\u2019s just riding a bike. Do I really think about <em>how<\/em> I\u2019m pedaling when I ride? Yes, on a training ride. The same way a serious baseball player thinks about their swing when they&#8217;re in the batting cage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Do a Basic Bike Fit<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Even though the bike is \u201cyour size,\u201d we need to do some tweaking before we ride. Your LBS should work with you on most of this.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Saddle angle<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The saddle should be level to the ground. Ignore anyone or anything that says different. Lay a carpenter\u2019s level along the top to check. To make sure it worked, go for a ride and try sliding forward and aft on the saddle\u2014it shouldn\u2019t feel like you\u2019re going downhill or uphill more in one direction than the other. Tipping a saddle nose down is particularly dire, because it invites back and hip problems.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Saddle height<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This is a big deal.  By far the most common cycling problem I see in other riders is a seat that&#8217;s too low.  And the penalty for a too-low seat is huge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>There are many complex formulae for determining saddle height, and you can google them and use them if you want to. If you want to keep it simple, you want a saddle height that uses all the muscles in your legs. If the saddle is too low, you can\u2019t extend your legs so you lose power, and you put unnecessary strain on your knees\u2014drop your saddle to an absurdly low level and try to ride up a hill to feel this beyond dispute. If the saddle is too high, you\u2019ll have to rock your hips or point your toes to reach the bottom of the pedal stroke, both power-robbing behaviors. You want to use the full stroke of the leg but never quite straighten it, because at that moment you lose power. So we want a pedal-to-saddle distance that, when you\u2019re pedaling with level hips and feet level to the ground, leaves just a slight bend in the knee at the bottom of the stroke.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>You can eyeball this (or better yet have a friend eyeball this): sit level on the bike cleated in with your pedal at 6 o\u2019clock and your foot level to the ground and look at your knee\u2014it should be slightly bent but no more. Another test is to assume the same position but lock your knee\u2014your heel should be slightly angled toward the floor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Most beginning riders want a saddle that\u2019s too low because that\u2019s what they\u2019re used to from townies (it makes it easier to put a foot on the ground), so you can assume you\u2019re one of them and just keep raising your saddle by small increments until something tells you that\u2019s too far\u2014either you want to rock your hips or point your toes, or you just feel a dead spot at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Don\u2019t stop when it feels \u201chigh enough\u201d\u2014go to too high, then back off.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In general I encourage you to not be fussy about bikes, but this one thing is worth obsessing over, because the cost of even a slight error is high.  Every time I rent a bike, I raise the saddle to what feels and looks right, ride for ten minutes, realize that on the climbs I&#8217;ve got no power and my knees are killing me, raise the seat a half inch, ride for ten minutes, realize that on the climbs I&#8217;ve still got no power and my knees are still killing me, and raise the seat another quarter inch.  At last, full power and pain-free riding!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Saddle fore and aft position<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Maximum power comes when you\u2019re driving straight down onto the pedals, which turns out to mean your knees are directly over the pedals at 3 o\u2019clock. If your saddle is behind or ahead of this spot, you\u2019re making riding harder than it has to be. It\u2019s the difference between lifting twenty pounds that\u2019s positioned directly under you and lifting it when it\u2019s two feet in front of you. This position can\u2019t be eyeballed, so you need a plumb line (ask a friend to assist or lean against a wall). Sitting square on the bike with pedals at 3 and 6 o\u2019clock, drop a plumb line from the little indentation immediately below your forward kneecap down through the pedal. The line should bisect the pedal spindle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Many racers obsess about this measurement. And there are personal preferences\u2014many riders like their saddles a bit behind this \u201cideal\u201d position. And of course you move around on the saddle, so the perfect position for sprinting isn\u2019t the perfect position for climbing. I\u2019ve talked to respected wrenches who said, \u201cPut the seat post in the middle of the saddle rails and forget it.\u201d So I think ballpark is OK on this issue. Measure it once to make sure you aren\u2019t way off, then mark the position on your saddle rails with Gorilla tape (saddles have a tendency to work their way back on the saddle rails).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Handlebar drop<\/strong> <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>You may well want to raise the height of your handlebars. But don\u2019t do anything unalterable here, because this is one measurement on the bike that is going to change if you\u2019re new to riding\u2014the longer you ride, the lower you\u2019ll want your handlebar to be, unless you have back issues.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Begin by measuring the distance from the top of the saddle to the ground, then the distance from the top of the handlebar to the ground, substract one from the other, and that\u2019s your handlebar drop\u2014the distance your bar sits below your saddle. If you\u2019re old, inflexible, or new to cycling, you\u2019ll want that distance to be small, with the bar about 1\u201d below the saddle. Racers like it large, with the bar as much as a foot below the saddle, because they want to get as low as possible to minimize wind resistance. Everyone else is in between. Start out with your bar high and lower it as you gain confidence and become more aggressive in your riding. But don\u2019t try to replicate the upright position of your townie bike\u2014you want to be bent over some, carrying some weight on your arms.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>There are three ways to effectively raise a handlebar. They\u2019re all doable by a handy beginner, but you may want to discuss them with your LBS or have them do it:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>1. Raise your stem by installing spacers (little rings) under it. The length of the steerer tube limits how much of this you can do, but you can go as far as the steerer tube will let you.<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\" start=\"2\"><li>2. Swap your stem for one with more rise (upward angle), or, if your stem is installed pointing down (which is quite possible), turn it upside down. See the stem discussion in the Components chapter for details.<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\" start=\"3\"><li>3. If you have a standard handlebar, swap it for one with a shallow drop (AKA <em>compact<\/em> shape) where the C of the handlebar curve is shorter top to bottom. This raises your hand position when you\u2019re in the drops.<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>These three things may not be enough to solve the problem if you need an extremely upright riding position. In that case, you have two options.  One is, install a <em>steering tube extender<\/em>, which effectively makes your steering tube 4-6 inches longer.  This is a radical move which will likely expose you to ridicule.  The other is, sell the bike and buy one with more relaxed\/plush\/cush geometry (see \u201ctypes of bikes\u201d in the Buying a Bike chapter).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Don\u2019t try to bring the handlebar up by lowering the seat\u2014seat height is determined by your leg length and may not be altered for any reason.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Brake lever position<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>A lot of new bikes are set up so the brake levers are so high on the bar they\u2019re next to unreachable from the drops. If your bike is like that, move the levers down the bar curve until they\u2019re handy. Don\u2019t think, \u201cI can reach them fine from the bar top, and that\u2019s where I spend most of my time, so it\u2019s OK\u201d\u2014any time you&#8217;re descending, you\u2019ll be in the drops, and that&#8217;s when the brakes are indispensible.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Brake lever reach<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If your levers stand too far out from the bar for you to reach them comfortably, you need to reduce the reach. Some brakes have a simple adjustment screw that lets you do this. If yours don\u2019t, you can sometimes get little hard rubber shims that wedge into the top of the bake levers and accomplish the same thing. If neither solution is available to you, you\u2019ll have to buy brakes with reach adjustment\u2014a pricy upgrade, but you really need to be able to reach your brakes. If you can just barely reach them now, you won\u2019t be able to reach them when you ride in winter gloves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Cockpit size (distance from saddle to handlebar)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>We talked about this in Buying a Bike, and ideally you made sure your cockpit fit you then, but it\u2019s such an important part of bike fit we should talk about it again.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Cockpit size isn\u2019t quantifiable. You just have to sit on the bike and judge whether or not you feel too bent over or too extended, or, better yet, have a bike fitter look at you and render an opinion.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If the reach is wrong for you, the only adjustment available to you is stem length, and changing stem length alters handling\u2014a shorter stem means snappier, quicker handling, so if the reach feels too big you can try shorter and shorter stems (a \u201cnormal\u201d stem is 100-110 mm) until the handling becomes fidgety. In the other direction, if the cockpit is too small you can go to longer and longer stems until you feel like the bike begins to steer like a truck. Don\u2019t try to adjust reach by moving the saddle fore and aft\u2014it screws up your pedaling, which is more important than reach.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Preparing to Ride<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Know what to call yourself<\/strong>. Before we do anything else, let\u2019s get the labeling right. Are you a cyclist, a bike rider, a biker, or what?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Cyclist: someone who rides a road bike as a sport. The term implies you take your riding seriously, as in \u201cI\u2019m not a cyclist\u2014I just like to ride my bike.\u201d<\/li><li>Mountain biker: someone who rides a mountain bike\u2014never call a mountain biker a cyclist.<\/li><li>Rider: anyone on a bike<\/li><li>Bike rider: what Brits often call a cyclist<\/li><li>Biker: member of a motorcycle gang<\/li><li>Bicyclist: someone on a bicycle when you\u2019re driving by them in a car or passing legislation<\/li><li>Roadie: an affectionate term used by cyclists to describe a cyclist<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Join the club of cyclists<\/strong>. By this I mean more than \u201cjoin a cycling club\u201d (though I mean that as well). I mean, wear what \u201creal\u201d cyclists wear. Use the jargon. Go to bike races. Get autographs from famous pros. Do group rides, subscribe to cycling magazines, learn a little about bike maintenance, volunteer at your local club\u2019s century. Talk the talk, walk the walk.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The idea comes from Frank Smith, the famous learning theorist, who spent his life studying how people learn and summed it all up in seven words: \u201cWe learn by the company we keep.\u201d That means, we start learning how to do X when we say we\u2019re members of the imaginary Club of Those Who Do X. In other words, we start learning to cycle when we stop saying, \u201cI ride a bike\u201d and say, \u201cI\u2019m a cyclist.\u201d We can join any time, from day one\u2014there is no minimum skill level required. The only thing we have to do to join is to tell ourselves we\u2019ve joined.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This is a powerful idea, and it\u2019s true about everything. Children don\u2019t grow up until they choose to join the mythical Club of Grown-Ups. People can write all their lives, but they aren\u2019t writers until they choose to join the mythical Club of Writers. I know you probably can\u2019t do this wholeheartedly if you\u2019re new to cycling\u2014oh, the presumption!\u2014but accept the fact that joining the Club is your goal, and push yourself in that direction always. Buy the bibs or wear the pro team jersey long before you\u2019re comfortable with the idea.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Join an actual cycling club<\/strong>. Obviously, the single most important symbolic act in your becoming a cyclist\u2014even more important than buying your first cycling shorts\u2014is joining a real cycling club. This is something you can and should do today. The more a novice you are, the more you need a club. The benefits are enormous. You\u2019ll gain friends and riding companions, you\u2019ll get to take part in organized rides that will get you out on the bike, introduce you to local routes, and challenge you to go beyond your comfort zone, you\u2019ll gain access to a wealth of knowledge and expertise about cycling, and you&#8217;ll possibly get in on inexpensive out-of-town multi-day tours and international tours you\u2019d never dare to do on your own.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Clubs have their own personalities. Some are race-oriented. Some are little more than travel agencies for riders who want to ride in foreign lands. Some have daily rides all year long; others just exist to put on centuries and other formal events. You want one that puts on lots of rides and has an active program for novices: easy rides, short rides, skills classes, a mentor program. Ask around\u2014all riders know the personalities of the local clubs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Start your ride log<\/strong>. You want to start keeping track of your rides from Day One, because when you start it two years later, like most people do, you will wish you could recover all those unrecorded miles. If you have a Garmin or other electronic ride recorder, your software will keep the log for you. If you don\u2019t, write it down in a little spiral notebook or some such. Recording the details of the ride afterwards is one of the sweet rituals in the sport. I record date, time spent riding, distance, max heart rate, elevation gain, average speed, max speed, number of bikes seen, and number of cars seen if I\u2019m riding a backcountry road, but many riders record much more and you can please yourself, as long as you record the mileage.  I like to do this on paper\u2014I&#8217;ve had too many computers die without warning and take all their data to the grave with them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Make a pre-ride checklist<\/strong>. Put in it everything you want to take on a ride or do to prepare for a ride. Consult it before all rides other than neighborhood leg-looseners, and every time you forget something add it to the list until there\u2019s nothing more to add. Include everything, however obvious\u2014I\u2019ve been on bike trips where people forgot shoes, water, gloves, helmets, and skewers. Probably the most-forgotten item on a bike trip is the front wheel, so put that on the list. And remember, the list does you no good if you don\u2019t look at it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>To get you started, here\u2019s a checklist of things you might want to make sure you have in addition to the bike before you head out for a local weekend ride:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Helmet<\/li><li>Front wheel<\/li><li>Water bottle(s) <\/li><li>Water<\/li><li>Supplements: Energy bar, gel, electrolyte capsules<\/li><li>Gloves<\/li><li>Headband or skullcap or both<\/li><li>Vest or windbreaker or both<\/li><li>Computer, Garmin, or other recording device<\/li><li>Heart rate monitor (if it\u2019s more than a stroll)<\/li><li>Sunblock on your exposed skin<\/li><li>Cycling glasses<\/li><li>Cell phone<\/li><li>Seatpack and contents<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>In your seatpack (obligatory):<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Spare tube<\/li><li>Tube patch kit<\/li><li>Mini-pump or air cartridge with inflator<\/li><li>Two tire irons<\/li><li>$20 bill and\/or credit card<\/li><li>multi-tool or Allen wrenches<\/li><li>Handi-Wipe<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>In your seatpack (nice to have): <\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>twisty tie<\/li><li>cable tie<\/li><li>2 ft of lightweight wire<\/li><li>2 ft of duct tape (rolled around a dowel)<\/li><li>Kevlar tire boot<\/li><li>tube valve extender<\/li><li>bandaid (for saddle sores)<\/li><li>aspirin or other painkiller<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>By the way, the Handi-Wipe you keep in your seat pack for six months before you use it will be bone dry when you finally do. All the cleaner is still there\u2014only the water has gone. Just re-wet it from your water bottle and it will be good as new.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Many of these items are discussed in the chapters on clothing and accessories.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Start a bike maintenance log<\/strong>. You are setting out on a long relationship with your bike, a relationship that will be punctuated by frequent tune-ups, repairs, mechanical modifications, breakages, part replacements, and upgrades. Every time one of these things happens, record the event, the date, and all parts details (dimensions, model numbers, serial numbers, weight) in your log. Include accessories like helmets, shoes, and mini-pumps. I promise you, a hundred times in the next few years you will want to know the exact date when you swapped out that OEM handlebar for the spiffy carbon one, and what the cost, dimensions, and model numbers of both bars were.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Everybody thinks they&#8217;ll just remember, but they won&#8217;t. I once thought, \u201cI think it\u2019s been about 6 months since I replaced my chain,\u201d so I consulted my log, and found it had been a year and a half (far too long).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>You&#8217;re saying, &#8220;I&#8217;m not a tech nerd\u2014why do I care what make and model my bicycle seat is?&#8221;  But a friend of mine who is as un-nerdy as a rider can be had her bike stolen, and that bike had the only seat she had ever found that didn&#8217;t hurt, and now she can&#8217;t go buy another one because she doesn&#8217;t know the make and model.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Even if you don&#8217;t want the information, others will. When my cycling shoes fell apart unexpectedly, the first questions the manufacturer asked were, When did you buy them?, and what\u2019s the model number and size? Since I had the answers to those questions in my maintenance log, they replaced the shoes for free and without fuss.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Christen your maintenance log by entering everything you know about your current bike: make, model number, size, serial number, weight, date of purchase, and all similar information on all components. If you don\u2019t know, say, the model number of your OEM wheels, this is a good time to learn\u2014call the shop where you bought it and find out.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Why record the weight of everything? Because, even if you aren\u2019t a <em>weight weenie<\/em>, you\u2019re going to have to replace things when they wear out, and it\u2019s nice to know if you\u2019re adding or losing weight when you do. If the new handlebar your Local Bike Shop is suggesting as a replacement for your cracked OEM bar is 80 g. heavier, that\u2019s worth knowing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Inflate your tires<\/strong>. Air up your tires before every ride (or, if you ride every day, every other ride) to full riding pressure. Make it a habit. Bike tires aren&#8217;t like car tires\u2014they leak air, up to 10 psi a day.  Riding on underinflated tires invites pinch flats, hastens tire wear, and adds to rolling resistance (makes you work harder). Riding on overinflated tires gives you an unforgiving, jarring ride and also adds to rolling resistance. Don\u2019t squeeze the tire to see if it needs air\u2014underinflated tires still feel hard to the touch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>So what\u2019s the right tire pressure?  The answer to that question used to be simple: 110 to 120 psi.  Back in the old days it seemed intuitively obvious that harder was faster. My current tires say they should be inflated to a <em>minimum<\/em> of 110 psi. But it turns out we were wrong.  But tire pressure has become complicated in recent years, and every issue of a bicycle magazine now seems to have its article on how to determine ideal tire pressure. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you don&#8217;t like fussing with technical issues, inflate your tires to 90 psi and go ride.  But if you&#8217;re willing to put up with a little fuss, you can do better.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>There are two ways to think about tire pressure. One says: Speed is determined by rolling resistance\u2014the inherent friction holding back the bike as it tries to roll down the road\u2014and RR actually goes up when the tire gets too hard. So too hard is bad. But there\u2019s a downward limit to tire pressure. If the tire gets too soft, RR goes back up and you get pinch flats\u2014you ride over a pothole, the impact smashes the tire and tube against the rim, and the rim actually punctures the tube. So we need enough air to not pinch flat, but low enough pressure that we get low rolling resistance. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>That would seem to be a fixed number, but there are two complicating factors: tire volume and rider weight.  The fatter the tire, the more room the tire has to compress before it pinch-flats, and the lower tire pressure you can run safely.  And the heavier you are, the more a tire will compress when you hit a pothole, so the more pressure you need to keep the tube from pinch-flatting.  So whereas a 160-lb rider on a 25 mm tire will want your generic go-to tire pressure, 85-90 psi, a 38-mm tire will need much less pressure and a 210-lb clydesdale will need much more.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The effect of tire volume on tire pressure is startling. If a 23 mm tire needs 100 psi, a 28-mm tire needs 63 psi, a 2.1-inch tire on a mountain bike needs 25, and a 4-inch tire on a fat bike needs 5 psi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Since tire pressure is partly determined by rider weight, run a few pounds more in the rear tire than in the front tire, because as much as 75% of your weight is over your back wheel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you want to understand why lower tire pressures (to a point) improve rolling resistance, here&#8217;s the physics: When you ride over a bump, the bike is forced up in the air and comes back down. That upward motion is energy, and it\u2019s energy taken out of the energy propelling you forward. Ride over a series of such bumps, like a series of grooves or ridges placed in the pavement to warn you of a coming corner, and, as your teeth are being jarred out of your head, you can feel the bike slow way down, the pedaling get much harder, and the power being sucked out of your legs. Also, any time your tires are not in firm contact with the road, they can\u2019t drive you forward\u2014they need traction to do that. That\u2019s why automobile drag racers use huge, soft tires with sticky rubber.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>So anything that prevents you from bouncing\u2014anything that keeps you attached to the road\u2014makes you faster. Softer tires soak up bounces. So logically you want a tire pressure just soft enough to keep you from bouncing. On a smooth surface, like an indoor velodrome track, racers still use pressures as high as 220 lbs, because they know a bounce is not going to happen. In cyclocross races, where the riders are riding on dirt and over rough stuff, tire pressures of 25 lbs are common. And mountain bike trials riders, who are riding over logs and boulders, often use 10-20 lbs. Now you know what tire pressure to use: the highest pressure that doesn\u2019t make you bounce. Of course it won\u2019t feel like bouncing, because the bounces are tiny\u2014it will feel like chattering, what cyclists call <em>road buzz<\/em>. If your tires chatter, lower your tire pressure. But not so much that you pinch flat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>So where does that leave us?  With something like this:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you&#8217;re average size riding on 25-mm tires: 85-90 psi<br>If you&#8217;re average size riding on 28-mm tires: 70 psi<br>If you&#8217;re average size riding on 35-mm tires: 50 psi<br>If you&#8217;re average size riding on 45-mm tires: 35 psi<br>If you&#8217;re heavier than average, increase all these numbers.  Put a few pounds more in the back tire, because 75% of your weight is over it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you want more precision than this, there are tire pressure apps for your phone where you enter your tire size, body weight, riding style, favorite Star Wars character, and religious affiliation and it spits out the theoretical perfect tire pressure.  The gold standard for such sites is the <a href=\"https:\/\/silca.cc\/pages\/sppc-form\">Silca Pro Tire Pressure Calculator<\/a>, and you should have a go at it at least once because it&#8217;s fun.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Super-high tire pressures used to be sexy, and riders would brag about how hard their tires were.  Now super-low tire pressures are sexy, and riders brag that they&#8217;re running on 25 psi.  This too shall pass.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Do not over-inflate your tires on the theory that air is lost when you remove the pump from the tube valve. Indeed, you do hear a rush of escaping air, but all that air is coming out of the pump, not the tire.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Don\u2019t determine your tire pressure by ride feel. Over-inflated tires feel \u201cfast,\u201d because for some reason the human brain translates road buzz into speed. When you first experiment with lower pressures, the bike feels a little dead, and you\u2019ll think you\u2019re slow, but you aren\u2019t.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>A floor pump is a poor way to check air pressure, because the gauges on tire pumps are notoriously unreliable, and because every time you put a pump on a tire, you have to take a lot of air out of the tire to fill the pump and activate the gauge. I encourage you to buy a digital air pressure gauge (about $20). Most riders consider it a frill, but I think it\u2019s a necessity.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Adjust your helmet<\/strong>. Most children, commuters, and cruisers wear their helmets in a way that gives them no protection at all in the advent of a crash\u2014loosely strapped and tilted back on the head. To avoid that, set the helmet level on your head, which means low over the eyes, almost resting on your glasses. You should be able to see the edge of the helmet if you look up. Tighten the chin strap until it\u2019s next to uncomfortable. It\u2019s tight enough when it cuts into your throat a little if you yawn or stick two fingers inside it. Tighten the size adjuster at the back of helmet as snugly as is comfortable. Don\u2019t worry if it feels a mite constricting at first\u2014after 10 minutes you\u2019ll forget the helmet is there.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This is one area where you shouldn\u2019t imitate pro riders.  Pros hate helmets (and actually threatened to go on strike when first required to wear them), and they often wear them with the chin strap loose.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>How to Sit on a Bike<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Relax everything in your body except your leg muscles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Let your shoulders droop. If you have trouble telling whether your shoulders are relaxed not, stick out your elbows\u2014you should feel your shoulders drop into the desired position.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Neither arch nor sway your back.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Keep your elbows a bit bent.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Keep a loose but firm grip on the handlebar\u2014firm enough to stay in control if you hit an unexpected pothole but loose enough so you aren\u2019t tiring out your hands. It\u2019s a bit of a paradox but becomes second nature with practice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sit lightly on the saddle. Again, it\u2019s a bit of a mystery at first. To get a sense of what you\u2019re striving for, consciously sit heavily on the saddle, then ride with your butt half lifted off it. Then settle for something between the two extremes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Keep your hips level side to side. This is something you can\u2019t see, so ask a friend to look at you while you sit on the bike with your pedals at 3 and 9 o-clock.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Keep your upper body still. Don\u2019t rock your hips. Don\u2019t sway side to side. Don\u2019t pull on the handlebar with your arms. Only your legs work.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Don\u2019t be glued to the saddle. Slide forward onto the <em>rivet<\/em> (the nose), move back, stand up. It keeps you from getting stiff and helps you learn to move with the bike.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Keep some weight on your hands but not a lot. Leaning hard on the bar is tiring. You should be able, without moving, to lift your hands an inch above the bar without causing anything other than a tightening of your core muscles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Move your hands around as you ride<strong>.<\/strong> The road handlebar is designed to offer you lots of hand positions. Use them all, as a way of keeping your hands, arms, body, and mind fresh.  Still, there are norms: Ride with your hands on the tops (the flat part) to rest or poke along; ride with your hands in the drops to descend or sprint; and ride with your hands just behind the hoods (the rubber shifter covers) at all other times.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Basic Bike Riding Skills<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Riding is a technical sport, which means you use a lot of technique when you do it. When people say, \u201cIt\u2019s like riding a bicycle,\u201d they mean it\u2019s nearly natural, done unconsciously, and once learned it&#8217;s effortless. But we\u2019re not talking about \u201criding a bicycle\u201d\u2014we\u2019re talking about \u201ccycling.\u201d It\u2019s the difference between sitting on a dock with a line hanging in the water and fly fishing. This chapter will cover technique you need on your first ride. The next chapter will cover more advanced lessons.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>What are the drops for?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The first question a beginner has, even before they get on a bike, is, why do the handlebars curve down like that? The drops do four things: increase your power (you get more force on the pedals when you&#8217;re bent over), improve braking and handling, make you more aero, and let you stretch out your back.  So expect to be in the drops in the following situations:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>When you\u2019re descending any pitch that feels noticeably like a descent\u2014because you can brake better and control the bike better<\/li><li><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>When you\u2019re sprinting\u2014because it makes you more powerful and more aero<\/li><li><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>When you\u2019re riding over something that threatens your control, like railroad tracks<\/li><li><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>When your back gets stiff and you want a different position for a moment<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>This means that if you\u2019re doing an easy flat ride you may never touch them. But one thing you may not do is decide the drops are awkward and therefore you won\u2019t ever use them. Descending at speed or riding over obstacles out of the drops is life-threatening, because you can\u2019t steer and you can\u2019t brake.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>There are 7 things you need to be able to do when you ride out of the driveway: clip in, clip out, start, stop, brake, shift, and turn. (You also need to pedal, but pedaling is subtle and therefore will have to wait until the next chapter.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Using Clipless Pedals<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Your new bike may come with platform pedals. If so, as soon as you can, replace them with clipless pedals (oddly named, since you \u201cclip in\u201d with them, but they superseded the \u201ctoe clip,\u201d so it makes a kind of sense if you think of them as \u201ctoe-clip-less pedals\u201d). For some riders, this takes years. Don\u2019t be one of them. This you need. For reasons, look at the Pedaling section of the Advanced Skills chapter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The clipless pedal is the bane of beginning cyclists. Every rider has had the experience of coming to a stop, being unable to clip out, and tipping ignominiously over. Traditionally this is done during a group ride so you have an audience.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Practice will bring mastery, but there are some tricks that will make the learning curve less painful:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>1. If your cleats or pedals allow you to adjust the stiffness of the entrance\/exit, set them at the loosest possible setting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>2. Sit on the bike in a doorway and hold onto the door jamb. Practice clipping in and out a few dozen times.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>3. Notice how the mechanism works. Don\u2019t just stab blindly or rip your shoe out of the cleat by brute force\u2014understand the design and work with it.  Do you clip in by stepping straight down, or by sliding your foot forward? Do you have to flip the pedal over with your foot to get to the entry? Most pedals release when you twist your heel outward, not pull it upward.  Most cleats release much more easily at 6 o\u2019clock in the pedal stroke than at 3 o\u2019clock and won\u2019t release at all at noon. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>4. For your first ten-plus rides, make a habit of clipping out and clipping back in every five minutes or so, when you don\u2019t need to. Every time you realize you haven\u2019t clipped out in a while, do it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>5. Clip out long before you need to. Notice approaching stops and clip out in preparation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>6. When you tip over, remind yourself everyone does it and it\u2019s a rite of passage\u2014now you\u2019re a cyclist.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Starting<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Starting and stopping are the times when you\u2019re most likely to fall over, so it\u2019s worth your time to learn to do them right.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>To start, stand with your weak foot on the ground, your butt on the saddle (you\u2019ll have to lean the bike), and your power foot clipped in (if your cleat allows it). Put the pedal at 3 o\u2019clock, parallel to the ground, gather your center of gravity into your chest, and mentally prepare to find your balance. <em>Don\u2019t push off with the ground foot<\/em>\u2014cleats aren\u2019t intended to provide traction and you\u2019re just inviting an awkward slip. Push down hard on the pedal. Assume that your first stab at cleating in with the other foot will fail and you\u2019ll have to either maintain your balance while you make a second try, return your free foot to the ground, or do 1 or 2 awkward un-clipped-in pedal strokes while you fish for the stubborn pedal. Be mentally prepared for all three possibilities.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>There is a great urge to turn the front wheel dramatically when you take off, thus carving a sharp turn. Resist this urge. If you turn the wheel, three bad things can happen: 1. You crash into a rider next to you or get hit by the car passing you. 2. You get an <em>overlap<\/em> between your tire and your toe, thus turning your shoe into a brake and bringing you to a jarring, sudden stop. 3. You turn the wheel so sharply that it becomes a brake to your forward momentum (you\u2019re actually trying to shove the wheel sideways down the road) and you sail over the handlebar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you fall, you want to make sure you fall toward your unclipped-in foot so you can catch yourself. So mentally prepare yourself to fall that way, favoring that side slightly with your balance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Starting on a steep climb has its own challenges. The road\u2019s pitch will rob you of all momentum instantly, so either a) be ready to do a track stand while you find your other cleat, or (more easily) b) move to the shoulder and start at a diagonal across the road, thus lessening the incline and lengthening your coast. Choose an angle that is slightly uphill, 3% or so\u2014don\u2019t head directly across the road, because if you do you will have to make an immediate and extremely tight 90-degree turn uphill at slow speed, which is an invitation to crashing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Stopping<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The principles of stopping are similar to the principles of starting. Realize the chance of falling is great and prepare yourself accordingly. Get your center of balance up into your chest.  Common sense says to get the bike vertical so it doesn&#8217;t want to tip over, but common sense is wrong.  Keeping the bike vertical gives you a 50\/50 chance of crashing.  Instead, realize that when you stop <em>you are actually, definitely going to fall to one side or the other<\/em>, and your goal is to make sure you fall in the direction of your choice.  To do this, pick the way you want to fall, clip out with that foot early, and as you slow, keep your body upright but lean the bike slightly toward the free foot, and as you stop let the bike fall toward it. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>As you prepare to stop, shift to the gear you&#8217;re going to want when you start up again.  This is especially important if you&#8217;re stopping right before a climb.  It&#8217;s common, but unpleasant, to descend in a big gear, stop at the bottom of the hill, start up the next roller, and discover you&#8217;re stuck in that big gear you now don&#8217;t want.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Braking<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you have rim brakes:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Start braking early<\/strong>. Rim brakes are ineffective compared to almost any other brake in our culture\u2014car brakes, Bendix brakes, mountain bike brakes. So you have to learn to expect it. Rim brakes won\u2019t stop you; they\u2019ll only slow you down gradually. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Brake with two fingers, from the drops<\/strong>. It\u2019s possible to brake from the top of the bar and with one finger, but you can\u2019t get much power that way (unless you\u2019re King Kong), so it\u2019s only good for slowing gradually on the level. Braking on a descent or braking in a hurry requires more force\u2014you\u2019ll have to get into the drops and get two fingers on each brake lever. So you need to learn to get into the drops at a moment\u2019s notice, which requires practice. Braking with two fingers means you give up some of your grasp on the bar, so you\u2019re in danger of losing your grip entirely if you hit a major jolt. There is no solution to the problem\u2014it\u2019s a trade-off.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Be cautious in the rain<\/strong>. Rim brakes work poorly when wet, if they work at all. All you can do about this is accept it, ride cautiously in wet weather, and start braking early. Remember, braking generates heat, and heat dries, so given time the wet rim will dry out and start grabbing again.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Watch for heat build-up<\/strong> <strong>on long descents<\/strong>. Rim brakes generate a lot of heat, which can warp your rims or cause your tires to leave the rims on long, steep descents. There is no easy fix here. You can try to brake in spurts\u2014on, off, on, off\u2014or you can stop to feel your rims for heat with your hand and let them cool when they get really hot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Whether you have rim or disc brakes:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Brake mainly with the front brake<\/strong>. Common sense says, if you brake with the front brake the rest of the bike will keep going and you\u2019ll do an endo over the handlebar; if you brake with the back brake you\u2019re throwing out an anchor behind you and you\u2019re safe. Common sense is wrong. About 75% of your braking force is in your front brake (basically because your momentum is headed into the front brake, not away from it), so if you try to do the bulk of the braking with the back brake the only thing that happens is you&#8217;re throwing away most of your braking power. Apply pressure to both brakes, but more to the front\u2014if you don\u2019t strangle the front brake you\u2019ll be fine. If you\u2019re making a panic stop and are worried about going over the handlebars, move your weight back behind the saddle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Shifting Gears<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Understand how gears work<\/strong>. Your rear cassette and front chain ring together act exactly like your car\u2019s transmission, except instead of meshing a large cog and a small one, you\u2019re connecting the two cogs via a chain. The transmission principle is about ratios: if you turn a big cog and transfer that motion to a cog half the size, the turning speed doubles. The bigger the difference in the two sizes, the higher the ratio and the greater the difference in speed. So your legs turn the big cog in front slowly, which connects to the little cog in back, which turns fast and you go fast. When you shift, you change the ratio: making the ratio smaller makes pedaling easier; making it larger makes pedaling harder. The derailleur physically moves the chain sideways so it\u2019s no longer lined up behind one gear and is now lined up behind the one beside it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The concept is simple, but the terminology is confusing. In the chain ring, a larger gear makes you go faster, so it\u2019s called a \u201cbigger\u201d or \u201chigher\u201d gear, and we talk about going \u201cup\u201d a gear or \u201cgearing up.\u201d So far, so good. But in the rear, a larger gear makes you go slower, so we call it a \u201csmaller\u201d or \u201clower\u201d gear and we call it going \u201cdown\u201d a gear or \u201cgearing down.\u201d Just remember: any shift that makes you go faster is going \u201cup\u201d to a \u201cbigger\u201d gear, whatever the physical dimensions of the cog. \u201cBigger\u201d always means \u201charder\/faster.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Your <em>gear<\/em> (as in, &#8220;I was pushing a very big gear&#8221;) is the relationship between your front cog (on your chainring) and your rear cog (on your cassette), and is usually written as two numbers, like &#8220;53\/11&#8221; (said &#8220;fifty-three eleven&#8221;), which means you&#8217;re riding in a 53-tooth cog in the front and an 11-tooth cog in the back.  Since what matters is the ratio 53 divided by 11, and ratios are hard to compute in your head (quick, which is higher, 53\/25 or 43\/18 and by how much?), a clearer way of talking about gearing is <em>gear inches<\/em>, which gives you a single number which is proportional to how far the bike travels with a single pedal rotation\u2014the further the travel, the higher the gear.  To calculate gear inches, apply this formula:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Gear Inches = Number of Teeth on the Front Ring \/ Number of Teeth on the Rear Cog x Diameter of the Wheels<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>A very big gear is around 124 inches, a very small one around 28.  If you google <em>gear inches<\/em>, you&#8217;ll get charts converting any chainring\/cassette cog combo to inches.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Whether you use ratios or inches, there&#8217;s some serious math involved, and riders usually just use words: <em>big gear, granny gear, almost in my granny<\/em>, etc.  I&#8217;ve never heard a rider talk about gear inches, and I mention it only because you&#8217;ll run across it in magazine articles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Since gears are ratios, there is a lot of overlap between the two chain rings\u2014most of the gears on the big chain ring are duplicated on the small one, or nearly duplicated.  The only gears not duplicated by the other chain ring are probably the two most extreme\u2014the biggest two on the big ring and the smallest two on the small ring.  So don&#8217;t figure to shift down through the cassette gears on the big ring, then go to the small chain ring and expect all the gears to be smaller still.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Shifting the chain ring makes a gearing difference that&#8217;s roughly equal to 2.5 shifts on the cassette, which turns out to be a handy thing to know when you&#8217;re riding rolling terrain and wondering if you want to shift in front or in the rear.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Shift all the time<\/strong>. Shifting a derailleur is one of the sweet pleasures of riding a bicycle, and you want to immediately begin to overcome any hesitation you have about doing it.  From your first day, shift constantly. Shift for the fun of it, even when you don\u2019t need to. Shift to explore how smaller and bigger gears feel. Shift every time the road goes up or down. Shift to vary the nature of the workload. Shift until there is absolutely no reluctance to shift. Do this with the front shifter too, since that\u2019s where most people feel the least confident.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Soft-pedal while shifting<\/strong>. Shifting requires moving the chain from one cog to another, and there is a moment when the chain is on the move and isn\u2019t attached to either cog. If you lean hard on the pedals at that transitional moment, the chain will damage itself and the cogs it\u2019s between. At the other extreme, if the chain isn\u2019t moving the chain can\u2019t change cogs, so you have to pedal. The solution to the conundrum is <em>soft pedaling<\/em> (AKA <em>ghost pedaling<\/em>), a light-pressure turning of the cranks\u2014enough to move the chain but not enough to damage the cogs. It\u2019s exactly what you do when you have the bike in a bike stand and you\u2019re turning the cranks by hand. You know you did it right if the chain moves quietly and sweetly from gear to gear.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Shift before you need to<\/strong>. When you start up the steep pitch and suddenly realize you need a much lower gear, you\u2019re too late. Almost any shift done under load at the last second will go badly. To prevent this, look ahead, realize what gear you\u2019re going to want in 3 seconds, and get into it before you need it. This is especially true when going to a larger rear cog in the rear (easier pedaling), since then the chain must be lifted as well as moved over\u2014in shifting to a smaller cog the chain is literally falling, so it has gravity helping it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>There are three situations where you can be sure you&#8217;ll need this skill: 1) when you hit a sudden steep pitch after some fast riding\u2014you go from 17 mph to 5 mph and will need to shift down on both derailleurs instantly, while shifting the rear cassette through 7 or more gears; and 2) when you stop on a hill and restart\u2014you&#8217;ll need a lower gear (if you have one) to accelerate uphill to cruising speed from a dead stop; and 3) when you come to a stop sign or red light on the flats\u2014you&#8217;ll need a lower gear to start from a dead stop.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Choose the right gear<\/strong>. You\u2019ve got 20-24 gears\u2014use them all. Never assume the gear you\u2019ve been using is the right gear for now\u2014keep trying higher and lower gears to see if you like them better, or just to give your body a different sort of workload. Any time the pitch or road surface changes, assume you\u2019ll need a different gear.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Some riders are peculiarly reluctant to do this, and a lot of them are pros. They crank along in one gear forever, uphill and down, as a matter of pride, as if they\u2019re being charged money for each gear change. I\u2019ve even met riders who boasted that they never used their granny gear, so they always knew they had it \u201cin reserve.\u201d This is madness, except as a training technique. You paid for those gears\u2014use them all. Tell yourself you want to spread around the wear on the cassette.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>There is no formula to determine which gear is the right one. If you go out and just ride, some gears will be so big you can\u2019t turn the cranks without great effort and some so small you\u2019re spinning and can\u2019t catch up to the pedals, but between those extremes there will be a range of perhaps 4 gears that seem pushable. Try them all, for three reasons:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>1. The bigger the gear the more you\u2019re using your muscles and the less you\u2019re using your cardio-vascular system, and vice versa, so moving around from gear to gear will vary the way you\u2019re taxing your body and prolong your endurance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>2. The gear that\u2019s working OK isn\u2019t necessarily the best gear\u2014often going up a gear will make you faster without necessarily taxing you more, and often climbing in a smaller gear will extend your endurance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>3. Everyone is a <em>spinner<\/em> (one who likes small gears and a high cadence) or a <em>masher<\/em> (one who likes big gears and a slow cadence), and, whichever you are, you need to push yourself toward the one you don\u2019t do naturally, by the basic training principle of \u201cTrain your weaknesses.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>A lower gear is easier, right? Yes and no. Yes, it\u2019s easier to turn the pedals over, but a lower gear can actually make you work harder, in two ways:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ol class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>If the gear gets too low, you start to spin, and spinning with little resistance from the pedals is exhausting.<\/li><\/ol>\n\n\n\n<ol class=\"wp-block-list\" start=\"2\"><li>A lower gear means you go slower, and slower means a) less momentum (so you have to do more of the work) and b) more elapsed time, so instead of climbing for 30 minutes you\u2019re climbing for an hour.<\/li><\/ol>\n\n\n\n<p>So it\u2019s always a matter of finding the ideal middle ground between spinning and mashing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Opt for spinning<\/strong>. In general, use a gear that lets you turn the pedals over quickly. Most people feel comfortable turning about 65-70 rpm, but you\u2019re using your energy most efficiently at 80-90 rpm, so push yourself to use the lower gear, especially climbing. A bike computer that records cadence helps here, but you can do it with any timer just by counting your pedal strokes\u201420 pedal rotations in 15 seconds = 80 rpm.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Avoid cross-chaining<\/strong>. For each chain ring, there is only one cassette cog that is directly behind it. For all other gears, the chain has to deflect (run left or right as it exits the chain ring). In most gears this is not a problem, but if you run in the cog farthest across from the chain ring (the big chain ring and the biggest cog, or the small chain ring and the smallest cog), the chain has to deflect massively. It\u2019s called <em>cross-chaining<\/em>, and it\u2019s hard on the chain, it\u2019s hard on the cogs\u2019 teeth, and often the derailleur cage can\u2019t get out of the way of the chain and there\u2019s an annoying clatter. The solution is to not cross-chain. You never need the cross-chained gear anyway, because you get the same gear ratio by going to the other chain ring and the cassette\u2019s midrange.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>That cross-chain clatter can occur in mild cases of chain deflection, and for this your front shifter may have provided you with a <em>trim<\/em>. It\u2019s a half-shift that doesn\u2019t change gears but moves the front derailleur cage over a smidge. Many riders ride for years without knowing it\u2019s there. See if you have one\u2014just move the shifter lever halfway and see if you get a click and a quieter chain. SRAM derailleurs after 2014 have a \u201cyaw\u201d feature that prevents deflection clatter and makes the trim unnecessary.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Turning<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>On slow rides you can turn a road bike the way you turn a tricycle, by turning the handlebar, but as soon as you pick up speed you need another technique. We\u2019ll talk about this at length in the Descending chapter, but here\u2019s a quick summary:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Lean the bike towards the turn.<\/li><li>Get off the saddle a little.<\/li><li>Stand on the outside pedal.<\/li><li>Push down on the inside end of the handlebar and lift up on the outside end.<\/li><li>Simultaneously, push forward on the inside end of the handlebar.<\/li><li>Don\u2019t crouch or lean your body into the turn\u2014stay upright and vertical.<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>See the Descending chapter for why these methods work.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Pain is temporary, quitting lasts forever. (Lance Armstrong) The journey of a thousand miles begins with the first pedal stroke. (Lao Tzu Chain) How Uncomfortable Is Riding a Road Bike? Before we begin, I\u2019m going to repeat what I said at the beginning of the Buying a Bike chapter, because it\u2019s a central concern of [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-55","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/bestrides.org\/bikeschool\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/55","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/bestrides.org\/bikeschool\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/bestrides.org\/bikeschool\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/bestrides.org\/bikeschool\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/bestrides.org\/bikeschool\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=55"}],"version-history":[{"count":88,"href":"https:\/\/bestrides.org\/bikeschool\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/55\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1833,"href":"https:\/\/bestrides.org\/bikeschool\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/55\/revisions\/1833"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/bestrides.org\/bikeschool\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=55"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}