Distance: 61 miles out and back
Elevation gain: 5860 ft
(A Best of the Best ride)
This is a fairly big, pretty ride through two lush valleys and over three moderate summits. The cumulative elevation gain is substantial, but except for those three ascents the climbing is pretty mellow.
East Carmel Valley Road is the name of Carmel Valley Road east of Carmel Valley Village. You could add miles by riding the first 11.5 miles of CVR, starting at Hwy 1, but it’s all 4-lane, fast, aggressive, over-developed, trafficky shoulder riding. Pretty unpleasant, and, while the scenery is nice, it’s nothing compared to what’s on our route. East of the Village the valley narrows, the valley walls steepen, the traffic lessens and slows down, the people thin out, the foliage gets denser, wetter, and prettier, and the road dwindles until it’s finally a centerline-less, shoulderless back road of exceptional beauty and charm. The road surface varies from good to poor, often poor enough to be a hamper on your riding pleasure.
Traffic is an issue here. Traffic isn’t heavy (3 cars/mile perhaps on a Friday afternoon in spring), but local drivers are hostile and impatient. Sightlines and passing lanes are poor and there’s no shoulder. So timing is everything. The last time I did the ride, on a beautiful Sunday midday in spring, I saw 1 car in 15 miles. Traffic lightens the further east you go, and, as always, the worst time for traffic seems to be 4-5 pm.
Cachagua Road (which means “place of grass” in—you guessed it—Mapudungun) is an alternate to 12 miles of CVR which takes off from it, crosses into the parallel valley to the south, rides along the valley, then climbs and descends the tall ridge that now separates the two valleys and returns to CVR. It’s as pretty as CVR at CVR’s best, it’s quieter, smaller, and windier, and the road surface is better, so you definitely want to take it unless you’re tired and want to get home as easily as possible. It adds about 4 miles and one substantial climb to the route.
Calvin, in the comments below, makes the point that there are no water sources on this ride. So you’re looking at a long day without a refill. You may have to drop a water bottle at the Tassajara Rd. intersection or knock on some doors. Except for the leg from the summit to Arroyo Seco, the entire route is largely in forested shadow, however.
https://ridewithgps.com/routes/37873592
Begin in Carmel Valley Village, a charming little upscale artsy community with friendly folks and good, unpretentious places to eat, if you like towns where every shop is a wine tasting salon, a spa, or a fine arts gallery (22 wine tasting rooms in a very small town, according to the town map). There are no public bathrooms in the village proper, but there are three bathrooms west of town: at the Chevron at the west end of town, at the visitor’s center/community center/museum/city park complex a bit further west, and Garland Regional Park still further west.
Ride east on East Carmel Valley Road to its end at Arroyo Seco Rd. The first few miles do not impress. You’re still in the Greater CVV Area, and it’s busy. The further you ride, the lighter the traffic becomes, the smaller the road, and the prettier the scenery, until you get to the summit 18 miles in (Mile 30 on the mile markers, which start at Hwy 1). These first 18 miles are mostly all up, but almost all of it is mellow. (Reader Bruce points out that the MWGPS map erroneously goes off-route briefly at mile 3.7—ignore it.). At Mile 10 you get the first and only laborious hill on the ride out (1 mile). Shortly after Tassajara Rd. goes off to the R (remember you saw it), you lose the centerline and things get really good. The canyon is small here, the woods are deep, and you’re riding alongside the creek, crossing it repeatedly on little bridges. It’s all up but never steep.
At the summit you have a decision: turn around or not? The rest of the ride is very different from what you’ve been through. This is the lee side of the hill, so instead of lush, dark oak canopies in a narrow creek canyon, you get down-at-heel ranches scattered on open, grassy hills and moderate vistas. By the time you get to the turn-around, you’re practically in California desert.
Ride back to the Tassajara Road intersection. The last 6 miles of the climb back to the summit are work. The road from the summit to Tassajara is all blissful down. Take Tassajara L, which is the only way it goes. In a short while take Cachagua Rd on your R. Cachagua descends very gradually for a few miles through pretty woods and low-key farms along Cachagua Creek, then does a major climb—2.5 miles of c. 7%—through lovely woods, as you climb over the ridge between Cachagua and Carmel Valley Road. The road meanders constantly and is never boring—a peach of a climb. After summiting and cruising on the flats for a bit, you are treated to a 2-mile, 10% plummet back to CVR. It’s fun, but it’s a lot of braking, so with rim brakes it’s stressful—I imagine with discs it would be a hoot.
Turn L on CVR and ride the 4.3 miles back to the Village.
There is an argument to be made for riding Cachagua in the other direction, west to east. Instead of a moderately taxing climb and a steep descent, you would have a tougher climb (2 miles at 9-10%), followed by a wonderful descent at high but manageable speed. It’s up to you.
Shortening the ride: There are several ways to ride only a part of this route and still preserve the charm and the beauty:
1. Ride to Arroyo Seco Rd. and back on Carmel Valley Rd (57 miles). This skips the big climb on Cachagua.
2. Ride to the summit on Carmel Valley Rd. and return, either via Cachagua or CVR. This skips the climb back up to the CVR summit.
3. Ride to Tassajara Road and take it, then Cachagua, turning the ride into a lollipop that skips the CVR summit in both directions.
4. Since the best legs of the route are Tassajara to the summit and Cachagua Rd., the shortest route that bags both of them is, start at the intersection of Tassajara and Carmel Valley Rd., ride to the summit of CVR, return, ride the Tassajara/Cachagua/CVR loop. That’s the short route I’d do.
Adding miles: At the turn-around at Arroyo Seco Rd. you can continue on Arroyo Seco in either direction. To the L/northeast, there are dramatic views of eroded hills for a few miles. Ride until the landscape isn’t interesting any more, then turn around. To the southwest the road is paved and the scenery dramatic until Arroyo Seco Campground, about 5 miles one way.
To the west of our ride, you’re only 5 miles down Carmel Valley Rd. from the jewel that is the Robinson Canyon Rd. ride. and about 14 miles from the Carmel entrance to the Seventeen-Mile Drive. You’re about 3 miles east of Laureles Grade, an up-and-down pass locals ride constantly and I hate—hot, dull, trafficky shoulder riding full of debris. Good vistas, though.
Agree with you on Laureles Grade. Hot and traffic and just relentless. Have done it twice…that’s probably enough for this lifetime.
Cachagua is a good workout. I agree with you on the aggressive local drivers on CVR. They can be nasty. Absolutely no police enforcement of speeds.
If you’re looking to add a few climbing miles, a nice one-mile climb heads north (L turn coming from Carmel Valley Village) one mile east of the village at Via Los Tulares right after a very narrow spot in CVR. It’s not a through road. 10 per cent or steeper.
Also, two hundred yards west of Via Los Tulares you can take a non-through road that climbs very gently for a mile before pitching up sharply (Klondike?–JR). Shady. Los Tulares is full-on sun.
Don’t ride Carmel Valley Road during Car Week in Sept. Lots of very hot expensive sports cars driven by people who don’t know the road. I always expect to see a Ferrari wrapped around a tree.
Monterey Car Week, actually in early August, is an interconnected series of car shows, races, auctions, and rallies focused around Laguna Seca Raceway.
Beautiful ride! Thanks for sharing. I’d echo the comment that climbing back from Arroyo Seco is quite exposed, so make sure you have plenty of water. I didn’t see any easily accessible grocery stores to refuel at the midpoint, so I just turned around.
Does anyone know if the area of this ride burned in the 2020 fires? What is the scenery like now? Still recommend?
Thanks!
I’ve done the ride since the burn and would say that the minor fire damage on Cachagua impacts the quality of the ride not one bit. JR
I did a shorter version, taking CVR out to Tassajara then dropping down to Cachagua. I think Cachagua is a much better route than going back on CVR, though you do have that climb! CVR is charming, but Cachagua is gorgeous. Fire damage is apparent only towards the top of the climb, and, while it is a sad reminder of that awful fire season, it isn’t a hellscape. By the way, there is a regional park just west of the Village on the north side of CVR with parking, bathrooms, and water. Thanks for all the work you have done to show us these wonderful rides.
I rode a version of this route on Tuesday June 15, 2021. I took the steep climb up Cachagua to start the ride, then when I rejoined CVR at Tassajara I continued east 6 miles to the summit on CVR. I returned on CVR. I started at 7am and on the climb up Cachagua there were at least 20 cars that passed me heading down the hill towards CVV but only 2 passed me heading up. Definitely more cars than I expected but all going slow due to the steep twisty road. The traffic cleared up by the time I finished the descent into Cachagua valley (morning commute rush-hour was over?). Almost no traffic then for the rest of Cachagua/Tassajara/CVR east to summit. The last 6 miles on CVR from Tassajara to the summit are amazing and my favorite part of the route. Traffic picked up gradually on CVR on the return once I passed Tassajara, and I agree there were many fast cars but most passed safely, crossing into the oncoming lane to leave space. Beautiful ride—thanks for these posts!
Just rode the short version of the loop. It’s an action-packed 27 miles with beautiful scenery—thanks for the tip, Jay! Just a note to be careful on Cachagua, which is not as quiet and isolated as I expected. There are many houses along it and a fair number of cars, including one that blew by me in the other direction at about 65 mph, despite the very narrow, twisty roadway.
I rode this route yesterday, one-way from Greenfield on 101 up Arroyo Seco to Carmel Valley Rd. with the Cachagua detour. It’s lovely, and the road is as described—fine for the uphill (west-bound), bumpy coming down, bumpy into Cachagua. Prevailing winds from the west were an issue, as was blinding sun in the 5-6pm witching hour. Traffic was light, not an issue. Thanks, Jay.
If you use the Ride With GPS map as my GF did, it contains an erroneous departure from CVR before mile 4 near where CVR meets Cachagua. Ignore that (just stay on CVR) and you’re good. Nice ride!
Thanks, Bruce. Yes, at 3.7 miles in the map takes an erroneous detour onto a side road, runs into Cachagua, then returns to CVR. It’s a mapping error. Ignore it. Some quiet wintry day I’ll redo the map and fix it.
A fair number of people commute from Cachagua into Carmel or Monterey in the morning and return in the afternoon. Ride in the opposite direction or outside commuting hours and you should be ok. Weekends are great. If you’re riding the Cachagua loop counter-clockwise, beware the descent just past the summit–blind corners and cars that don’t stay in their lane.